Electrical Safety Tips and Hazards

Each year hundreds of people die and thousands more are injured in accidents involving electrical fires or shocks. Most of these incidents can be prevented by following simple electrical-safety rules.

Do not attempt to adjust, test or make a repair if you do not have the basic repair skills or if you do not fully understand the directions provided in this web site. Furthermore, if your appliance, device, project, object of repair or its components differ from those described, you should not attempt the repair based upon the provided instructions. If the manufacturer's instructions differ from ours, always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Always wear eye protection and protective clothing or gear, as directed by a service manual or an install guide.

*Electric Shock can cause Injury or DEATH:

NEVER ASSUME the electricity is off. Before servicing an electrical device, disconnect it from its electrical source either by unplugging the appliance or turning off the power at the breaker or fuse box. Mark the service panel with a note so that no one will restore power while you are working. After turning off the power to the circuit, test the circuit to be certain that there is no power. Some devices can store a hazardous electrical charge even when disconnected from an electrical source, always discharge these devices before attempting service. If you are unfamiliar with a device or its components, consult with a professional before attempting service.

When working with electrical equipment wear rubber-soled shoes, avoid damp locations and hold all tools by their insulated handles. Never touch conductive surfaces such as pipes or metal bracing. Use a non-conductive fiberglass ladder when working with electricity. Avoid shorting electrical circuits.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers

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If a fuse blows or a circuit breaker is tripped, don't just replace or reset it. Find out what caused the circuit to overload and correct the problem.
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Never replace a fuse or circuit breaker with one that exceeds the amperage rating for a given circuit.
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Avoid using several high-amperage appliances - such as irons or other heat-producing appliances - on the same circuit.
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Never replace a fuse with a penny or any other material that conducts electricity.

Electrical Outlets

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Have a professional electrician replace old or damaged outlets with modern, three-wired, polarized receptacles. Proper grounding is essential to minimize fire and shock hazards.
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Plugs should match outlets. Three-pronged plugs require three-wired receptacles or a properly grounded adapter. Polarized plugs (now standard), with one prong wider than the other, require polarized receptacles.
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Never cut off or bend the ground pin of a three-pronged plug. This ground connection protects you from severe shock caused by a faulty cord or malfunctioning appliance.
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Never alter the wide prong of a polarized plug to make it fit into an outdated outlet. Have the outlet replaced and properly grounded.
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Protect children from electrical shock by installing plastic safety inserts in unused outlets.

Appliances

* All household appliances should bear the label of an independent testing laboratory, indicating that they meet basic safety standards.
* Keep heat-producing appliances, such as electric space heaters, electric ranges, and irons at least three feet (one meter) away from furniture, curtains, bedding, or anything that will burn.
* Allow plenty of air space around televisions, computers, and stereos to prevent overheating.
* Keep electrical cords away from heat-producing appliances, such as toasters and coffee makers.
* Be sure that detachable appliance cords, such as those used with coffee makers, deep-fat fryers, and popcorn poppers are rated for the electrical-load requirements of the appliance.

Electrical Cords

* Keep electrical cords out of traffic paths and away from areas where children play.
* Maintain all electrical cords. Replace any cord that is cracked, frayed, or otherwise damaged.
* Never pinch an electrical cord against walls or furniture.
* Do not run extension cords under carpets or across doorways.

Outdoor Power

* Use only weatherproof fixtures and GFCI outlets with weatherproof covers for outdoor installations.
* Never run outdoor extension cords across lawns for seasonal lighting displays or run any extension cord across driveways or traffic areas.
* Never use electrical appliances outdoors in wet weather or when the ground or grass is wet, unless the appliance is specifically designed and labeled by an independent testing lab for such use.
* Appliances used outdoors should be plugged into receptacles protected by ground fault circuit interrupters

Lighting

* Place lamps on level, uncluttered surfaces and be sure that lampshades are secure enough to protect the bulb from breaking if the lamp is knocked over.
* Light bulbs should not exceed the wattage recommended for a lamp or fixture.

Power Lines

* Report downed power lines and mark the area to warn others.
* Never go near or touch a power line. Doing so can result in a fatal shock or severe injury.
* Keep ladders, especially metal ones, away from power lines. This includes overhead electrical service to your home.

Warning Signs

You can spot many electrical problems before they cause a fire or shock. Be alert to the following danger signs:

* Recurring problems with blowing fuses or tripping circuit breakers.
* Feeling a tingle when you touch an electrical seasonal light.
* Discoloration of wall outlets.
* A burning smell or unusual odor coming from an appliance or wiring.
* Sizzling sound at wall switches or outlets.
* Flickering lights.

If you cannot locate a problem inside your home, call your power company or an electrician immediately to inspect the electrical connection to your home at your electric meter. (Outdoor meters are extremely vulnerable to weather damage.)

When you spot a warning sign, don't wait for an accident. Take action at once. Unplug a malfunctioning appliance if you can do so safely. If necessary, cut off the power to a problem circuit by disconnecting the fuse or tripping the circuit breaker manually.

Do it yourself projects can be fun, but they can also be hazardous. When you work around electricity you must be careful, being shocked can cause injury or even death. Please read through our electrical safety tips and hazards to get a good idea of what to do or not to do. If you have an electric problem or emergency and would like to speak to a qualified electrician now, feel free to call us 24 hours a day 7 days a week - 1-800-656-3569.

Electrical and Lighting Glossary

A-Line Lamp: An incandescent lamp generally used in most indoor residential homes.
Accent Lighting: Lighting used to accent or highlight a particular object and is four or five times the level of ambient light in an area.
Alternating Current (AC) : An electric current that changes direction with regular frequency.
Alternator: An electric generator that produces alternating current.
Ambient Lighting: Light that illuminates a space.
American Wire Gauge (AWG) : A standard measure representing the size of a wire (a larger number represents a smaller wire).
Ampacity: The current a conductor can carry continuously.
Ampere: A type of electric current that is produced by one volt applied across one ohm.
Analog: A unit of measure that utilizes varying physical restrictions.
Arc Tube: A tube enclosed by a glass made of clear quartz that contains an arc stream.
Ballast: An electrical device used with fluorescent lamps to supply sufficient voltage to operate the lamp but also then limits the current during operation.
Ballast Cycling: An adverse condition where the ballast turns a lamp on and off due to overheating.
Battery: Two or more cells connected together to provide electrical current.
Blower Doors: Devices used to see how much air leaks through windows, doors, and other places in a house.
Branch Circuit: Conductors that protect circuits and outlets.
Brownout: A reduction in power when the demand for electricity exceeds its generating ability.
BTU (British Thermal Unit) : The standard unit for measuring heat quantities.
Cable Lighting System: A low voltage lighting system where electricity is conducted through cables.
Candlepower/Candela: Unit of light intensity in a specific direction, measured in "Candelas."
Capacitor: A device that stores electrical charge.
Cathode: An electrode that emits electrons.
Cell: A device that converts chemical energy into electrical current in a battery.
Circuit Breaker: A device designed to open and close a circuit without causing damage to itself.
Circuit Extensions: Items used to extend or add on to an existing circuit to provide an additional power source.
Code Corrections: Procedures used to correct wiring that does not meet proper safety conditions.
Colored Glass Filter: Glass formed with the color in the glass as opposed being coated on the surface.
Color Temperature: A measure of the color appearance of a light source often described with terms such as "warm" (orange) or "cool" (white).
Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL) : A family of small fluorescent lamps made with a glass tube design and high color illumination.
Constant Wattage (CW) Ballast: A HID ballast where primary and secondary coils are isolated.
Continuous Load: A load whoýs maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.
Contrast: The relationship between the illumination of an object and its background.
Controller: A device that serves to regulate the electric power delivered to a connected apparatus.
Cornice Lighting: Light sources shielded by a panel parallel to the wall and attached to the ceiling.
Cove Lighting: Light sources shielded by a recess and distribute light over the ceiling.
Current: The flow of electricity measured in amperes.
Cut-off Angle: The angle where a light fixture or other shielding device cuts off direct visibility of the lamp itself.
Daylight Compensation: An energy-saving dimming system that reduces lamp output when in the presence of natural light.
Diffuse: Dispersed light distribution that softens illumination.
Dimmer: A device used to vary the brightness of lamps.
Diode: An electronic semiconductor device that allows a current to flow in just one direction.
Direct Current (DC) : Circuit allowing electrons to flow in only one direction.
Downlight: A light fixture recessed into the ceiling and illuminates in a downward direction.
Efficacy: A measure used to compare light output to energy consumption.
Electroluminescent: A light source technology that provides long lamp life while still consuming very little energy.
Electric Resistance Heating: A type of heating system that generates heat by passing current through a conductor, often used in baseboard heating systems.
EMI: Electromagnetic Interference: High frequency interference caused by electronic components that interfere with the operation of electrical equipment.
Emergency Lighting: Lighting for when normal lighting fails.
Energy: The ability to do mechanical work; it is measured in kilowatt-hours.
Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) : The ratio of the cooling capacity of the air conditioner to the total electrical input in watts.
Energy-saving Ballast: A magnetic ballast designed to operate more efficiently than "standard magnetic" ballasts.
Fault: A short circuit in an electrical system.
Filament: A tungsten wire that lights when electric current runs through it.
Flexible Track Lighting System: A low-voltage lighting system where the track holding the light fixture is able to bend.
Fluorescent Lamps: Devices that produce light by passing electricity through a gas.
Foot-Candle: The amount of light reaching an object.
Four-Way Switch: A wall switch allowing three switches to control one lighting system.
Frequency: The rate at which a current changes direction.
Generator: A rotating machine that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy.
Glare: A condition caused by light coming directly into the eye from a light source.
Grid: An electrical distribution network.
Ground: A connection between an electrical circuit and the earth.
Halogen Lamp: An incandescent lamp that contains halogen gases which slow the evaporation of the tungsten filament.
Hard Wired: A light fixture permanently connected to an electrical source with a cord.
Hertz (Hz) : The unit of frequency.
HID Lamp: High Intensity Discharge lamps have a longer life and tend to provide more light than most light sources.
High Bay: A type of lighting where the ceiling is 20 feet or higher.
High Output (HO) : A lamp or ballast designed to operate at higher currents in order to produce more lumens.
High-Tech Troubleshooting: A procedure used to identify any electrical problems.
Horsepower: A unit of power equal to 746 watts.
Hot Restart/Hot Restrike: The automatic restarting of a HID light source after a momentary loss in power.
Illuminance (Light Level) : The light incident on a surface.
Impulse: A currentýs surge.
Incandescent Light Bulbs: Light bulbs that produce light by passing electricity through a thin filament.
Infrared Cameras: Cameras used to see any heat leaking out of a building.
Infrared Radiation: An invisible radiation where wavelengths are longer and lower than that of visible radiation.
Instant Start: Fluorescent lamps that start instantly without pre-heating their cathodes.
Insulation: Materials that have a high resistance to electrical currents.
Inverter: A device that converts direct current into alternating current.
Ion: A positively or negatively charged atom or molecule.
Joule: A unit of energy equal to one watt for one second.
Kilovolt (kV) : A unit of electrical potential equal to 1,000 volts.
Kilowatt (kW) : Real power delivered to a load.
Kilowatt-hour: A unit of energy equal to one kilowatt for one hour; the typical unit used to measure energy and for billing customers.
Layers: Layers of light in a given space that are created by several different kinds of lighting (a combination of task, general, ambient, and accent lighting systems, etc).
LED: Light Emitting Diode: a small, energy-efficient electronic light that has a very long life.
Light Loss Factor (LLF) : Factors that allow a lighting system to operate at less than initial conditions.
Light Trespass/Spill Light: Light emitted into an unintended area.
Life Cycle Cost: Total costs associated with purchasing and operating a system over its lifetime.
Limit Switch: A switch used to alter the electric circuit.
Liquid-Filled Transformer: A transformer immersed in a liquid that acts as both a cooling and insulating method.
Live Parts: Electric components that are uninsulated or exposed and are therefore hazardous.
Load: The amount of power supplied by an electrical device.
Loadbreak: Disconnecting a load without damage.
Load Center: The source for all power to a structure.
Load Curve: A way to plot the electronic demand versus time.
Load Factor: Measures how efficiently an electrical systemýs capacity is utilized.
Load Switching: Transferring a load from one source to another.
Louver: A screen made of opaque material to minimize glare from a light source.
Low Voltage: A wiring system that provides power to an electronic device operating on a voltage level lower than the standard 110 volts.
Lumen: A unit of measure used to describe the amount of light a lamp emits.
Luminaire: A light fixture.
Mercury Vapor Lamp: A HID lamp where light is produced by radiation from mercury vapor.
Metal Enclosed/Metalclad: A device that is surrounded by a metal casing.
Metal Halide: A HID lamp where the light is produced by radiation of metal halide and mercury vapors.
Motors: Electronic device used to move, switch, or adjust one or more of the systems within a dwelling.
National Electrical Code (NEC) : A guideline used for safeguarding people/property from electrical hazards.
Neodymium: A silvery metal used to make purple glass for incandescent light bulbs, eye protection goggles, laser rods, filters, and lenses.
Occupancy Sensor: Control device that turns lights off after a space becomes unoccupied.
Ohm: The unit used for measuring resistance.
Opaque: A material that does not transmit visible light.
Optics: The components of a light fixture; the light emitting performance of a fixture.
Outlet: Where a current is taken to supply something outside the wiring system.
Overload: The excess of normal capacity that could cause damage due to overheating.
Overvoltage: A voltage that is above the normal rated voltage for a circuit.
PAR Lamp: A parabolic aluminized reflector lamp.
Pendant: Lamps equipped with shades to avoid glare that are suspended from the ceiling.
Phase: Classification of an AC circuit.
Photocell: A light-sensing device that controls light fixtures and dimmers in response to detected light levels.
Power: The rate at which energy is transferred.
Power Outage: An interruption in power.
Power Outlet: An assembly intended to distribute power to temporary equipment.
Preheat: A ballast that uses a starter to heat up a fluorescent lamp before high voltage starts it.
Puncture: A disruptive discharge that occurs in a solid dielectric.
Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) : Interference to a radio frequency band caused by other high frequency equipment in the area.
Rapid Start: A fluorescent system that does not require starters and emits light very quickly.
Rated Life: The time at which half of a certain kind of lamp will burn out.
Reactive Power: The product of voltage and current consumed by reactive loads.
Real (Active) Power: The rate at which energy is transferred, often measured in watts or kilowatts.
Receptacles: Power sources in a structure that provide electricity.
Reflector/Refractor: The device on a light fixture that shrouds the lamp and redirects the light emitted from it.
Regulation: The ballastýs ability to hold a constant output despite fluctuations in voltage.
Relay: A device that switches a load on or off due to small changes in its current.
Resistor: Anything that limits a current's flow.
Retrofit: Upgrading a preexisting fixture by installing new parts.
Sconce: A light fixture attached to a wall.
Semi-specular: Light reflection characteristics of a material.
Service: Equipment used for delivering electric energy from a utility to a wiring system.
Series Gap: Internal gap(s) where voltage is supposed to appear.
Series/Multiple: The winding of two coils that are connected for series/multiple operation.
Service Cable: Conductors transferred by cables.
Spacing Criterion: The maximum distance that interior fixtures may be spaced to ensure uniform illumination.
Specular: A mirrored or polished surface.
Starter: An electrical device used to start a fluorescent lamp.
Stroboscopic Effect: When rotating machinery appears to be standing still due to the alternating current supplied to multiple light sources.
Switchboard: A large assembly of panels mounted with protective devices.
Switches: Circuit interruption devices that control the flow of electricity in the home.
Symmetric: The normal flow of current.
Systems Capacity: A system that has met a customer's need.
Tap: A connection made from outside the wiring system.
Tandem Wiring: An option where a ballast is shared by two or more luminaries, thereby increasing efficiency.
Task Lighting: Lighting that is specifically installed to illuminate an area where tasks are performed.
Three-Way Switch: A wall switch allowing two switches to control one lighting system.
Track and Accent Lighting: A lighting system that provides variable degrees of light in multiple directions.
Transfer Switch: An electronic device that can disconnect from one power source in order to connect to another.
Transformer: A device wherein electromagnetic induction transfers electrical energy from one circuit to another.
Transient: A high amplitude, short duration pulse overlaid onto the normal voltage.
Translucent: A material through which some light is transmitted but causes some distortion.
Transparent: A material that transmits visible light with very little distortion.
Troffer: A recessed light fixture that uses fluorescent lamps and is installed flush with the ceiling.
Turn Ratio: The number of turns in a high voltage winding in relation to that of a low voltage winding.
UL: Underwriters Laboratories, Inc: a not-for-profit safety organization.
Uninterruptible Power Supply: A device that provides a constant output in spite of interruption.
Uplight: Light directed from a light fixture at or above 90 degrees.
UV Radiation: Light that is invisible to the eye.
Vandal-resistant: Fixtures with break-resistant shielding and tamper-proof screws.
Vapor-Tight Luminaire: A light fixture that doesnýt allow water vapor or gas to enter its enclosure.
VCP: Visual Comfort Probability: a rating system for evaluating direct glare.
Very High Output (VHO) : A fluorescent lamp operating at a very high current and therefore creating more light than a standard lamp.
Volt: An electrical flow that carries a current of one ampere.
Voltage Drop: The loss of voltage due to electrical resistance of a wire and its light fixture.
Wall Grazing: Dramatic light and shadow effects on a surface.
Wall Washing: A special lighting method that produces an even level of light on a wall in order to reduce the surfaceýs texture.
Watt: A unit of power equal to one ampere.
Wiring: A distribution network conducting electricity throughout a building.
Whole-House Fan: A fan used to ventilate an entire building.

Is Your Home Wasting Energy?

There are a few basics that every homeowner should pay attention to when it comes to energy conservation in the home: heating and cooling, windows, insulation, electrical systems, roofing, and doors. If you keep these systems in optimal condition, and update with newer, energy saving materials whenever possible, then you should be in good shape. If you haven't evaluated the state of these areas of your home, then you should perform an energy audit to figure out where you can improve the energy efficiency of your residence. Energy conservation is a responsibility we have to the environment, to each other, and to ourselves. That being the case, here are some of the most common solutions when it comes to energy conservation and home improvements.

Install Thermal Replacement Windows
If your old windows are drafty, installing thermal replacement windows is one of the best home improvement decisions you can make. It's an investment that will pay for itself in short order with the increased energy savings. And, not only will you be improving your home from an energy conservation standpoint, but your thermal replacement windows will look better, require less maintenance, and increase the resale value of your home as well.

Replace Incandescent Light Bulbs with Fluorescent Bulbs
While the florescent bulbs cost more up front, they last at least 10 times longer that the old bulbs and use far less energy to produce the same amount of light, drastically reducing your energy bills. Also, changing less bulbs means you don't have to keep shelling out money for replacement bulbs, either. Some used to complain about the light quality of fluorescent bulbs, but the new generation of fluorescent bulbs give off a pleasant, soft light, and special bulbs can be purchased for places where you have dimming switches installed. Taking all that into consideration, it's clear that replacing your incandescents with fluorescents is one of the easiest, and best, methods of energy conservation you can employ.

Check Home Insulation
Poor insulation, from your attic on down to your basement and crawl space, is a big source of energy loss for your home. Improving or adding insulation to any area that needs it is going to reap big benefits when it comes to reducing energy bills and upping energy savings.

Upgrade to Energy Efficient Appliances
Old appliances, from refrigerators and dishwashers, on up to furnaces and air conditioning units, use massive amounts of energy compared to newer, high tech models. You might consider a full appliance overhaul, if you've got the means, or you can just replace the old appliances with new, energy efficient models, as they wear out. Either way, these new appliances pay for themselves over time in energy savings. Look for appliances with the Energy Star label, since they are specifically manufactured with energy conservation in mind.

Consider an Energy Audit
It's one thing for you to evaluate your home yourself for ways to improve energy efficiency and another to hire a pro to come do the job for you. Investing in an energy audit is well worth the money, since the auditor will investigate your home top to bottom, then draw up a list of the most important, and effective, steps you can take towards creating a home where energy conservation is the rule, not the exception.

How To Create Your Own Electricity Source?

The entire world is affected by the energy crisis, and more and more people are searching for a way to cut their electricity bills. Many people are trying to reduce their semi-dependence on what is call non-renewable sources of energy.

Some of them are ready to take the next step to solve their problems. They are ready to live off the grid.

What is this crisis all about?

To understand what is happening right now, you need to know that there are only two sources of energy.

1. Renewable

2. Non renewable

Renewable simply means that you can use this source of energy over and over, with other millions of people. This source of energy will always be there, and it's not going to disappear.

In the renewable energy category, you have three different sources: The energy that comes from the sun (known as solar energy). You also have the energy that comes from the wind (called wind power or wind energy), and finally, you have the energy that comes from the water (hydro power).

You see, if one of these three sources disappear, humans will probably follow. So they are here to stay. And what is good for you is that they are way cheaper than the non-renewable sources of energy.

As for the non-renewable, it is the opposite. They will eventually stop.

What is the most abundant renewable source of energy?

Good question. It's the sun. It is a great source for heat and light energy. Many women turn to the solar energy to cook and save money on power bill.

Why aren't you using the sun to produce your own electricity yet?

As for hydro and wind power, they also help to reduce your power bills, and like the sun, these two sources of energy are not going to stop.

Free Power Designs and Resources - How To Build a Load Miser Switch

Introduction

A load miser switch is an automatic switching device that allows you to connect two large appliances such as a hot water tank and stove and prioritize one appliance due to an electrical panel or service entrance being underrated for a particular dwelling.

How Traditional Load Misers work

There are two types of loads in a miser switch, preferred and non preferred. When the loads reach 80 percent of the fuse rating of the device the non preferred load will shut off allowing the preferred appliance to operate. When the preferred load is below 80 percent or turned off, the load miser switch will allow power to go to the non preferred load.

Do they still exist?

Load miser switches have been fazed out over the years but there's still a demand for them. The electrical authorities don't want people to use them anymore, and this would account for their being fazed out but they're not illegal as there are many installed all over the world. Some people still manage to get their hands on them because of some available stock here and there. The lack of load miser switches has forced people to upgrade services from 60 to 100 Amps or 100 to 200 Amps and it has generated a lot of revenue for power companies. Most people who have new homes or perform major renovations have a new 200 Amp service that can handle many appliances at the same time. There are still millions of 60 and 100 Amp service entrances out there and a new service upgrade can become costly these days. Many people would like to control just two large appliances in their home or garage automatically to avoid nuisance tripping of their mains to save on a complete service upgrade.

Necessity Is The Mother Of All Inventions

Many people have an AC unit, washer and dryer, stove, and many other appliances that make a 60 and even 100 Amp service entrances mains trip when more than one appliance is running. If you're border line in amperage you just need those appliances prioritized with a miser switch. Fortunately there's a load miser switch design that's even better than the traditional load miser switching system. With some readily available parts you could build this miser switch yourself. Not only can it supply power to two loads or more and prioritize one of them, it can also be put into the main lines of a service entrance after a main disconnect and control many appliances or loads at once.

How the New Load Miser Switch works

The stove always has power as it's the main load you want running in the miser switch. When you turn your stove on; it could be one element, fan, coffee pot connected to the outlet attached to it, the current sensing relays will detect and open the power relay feeding the dryer. When this happens, the dryers power is cut off. When the stove load is reduced to just under your preset level of 1-100 Amps, it will allow the power relay to close and the dryer will work at the same time as the stove.

Some of the benefits to this load miser switch are

-You can adjust the current sensors from 1-100 Amps, even independently. Most stoves have an outlet with maybe a coffee pot connected, lights or fan. If any draw is detected above your preset level it will stop the non preferred load or loads from working. -You can install this miser switch into the main lines, after a main 60 or 100 Amp disconnect, and control many appliances through prioritization. -It can control relays or contactors up to the rating of you service entrance. You're not limited to 40 Amps and two loads like with the old miser switches. -You can run individual sensor wires from appliances to have control over your power relays with a smaller relay.

Power Electric System: Michael Thellend is an inventor, licensed electrician, certified in electronic controls and he specializes in alternative power. He offers a website with free custom ongoing resources regarding electrical, alternative, generator, vehicle and emergency power. Please visit: www.powerelectricsystem.com www.powerhow.com

How can i save money on my electric bill?...

The most electricity in your home is used by Electric Heat, Air conditioners, Electric Hot Water and your Electric Dryer. You could help by getting an automatic thermostat. Those long showers are nice but there costing you extra money. Do you really need to run that dryer that often? One other thing that could cause a problem would be a bad breaker or loose connections at the breaker.
Depending on what part of the country you live in, heating and cooling are the largest contributors to most household energy bills and are the best places you can look to save money. After making sure your home is well insulated, make sure your heating and cooling systems are running efficiently and central systems are checked annually.
To keep equipment running efficiently, keep heating and cooling air ducts clean and outdoor equipment free from dirt and other debris.
A balanced load in your electrical panel. Also the homeowners habits of electrical use. What is on? At what times? Can save money on your electric bill.

How to figure Kilowatt Hours!
Watts = Volts x Amps and the kilo in kilowatts stands for 1,000. Take the voltage, times the amperage, and divide the result by 1,000. This will give you the kilowatt usage per hour of any electric motor or other electric device.

How to read the utility electric meter!
Most electric meters are clockface, which means they use clockfaces instead of actual numbers. There are usually five clocks. Reading the clock faces from left to right, note the number the hand is pointing to. If the hand is between two numbers, note the lower number. If the number on each meter left to right was 1 2 3 4 5. Than your meter read is 12,345 KWh. And the next month it was 1 2 4 4 5, you would have used 100 KWh.

These are some approximate wattage values for appliances.
Appliance and wattage
Lighting - Emergency= 500 Watts
Lighting - Basic= 1200 Watts
Lighting - Full= 4000 Watts
Furnace - Gas= 750 Watts
Electric Heat= 5000 Watts
Heat Pump= 5000 Watts
Electric Water Heater= 5000 Watts
Security System= 20 Watts
Portable Radio= 15 Watts
Cordless Telephone= 15 Watts
Refrigrator - 20 Cu Ft= 800 Watts
Freezer - 20 Cu Ft= 550 Watts
Sump Pump= 900 Watts
Well Pump ½ HP= 1000 Watts
Well Pump 1HP= 2000 Watts
Garage Door Opener ½ HP= 400 Watts
Microwave Oven 800W= 1200 Watts
Microwave Oven 1000W= 1500 Watts
Coffee Maker= 900 Watts
Dishwasher= 1400 Watts
Toaster= 900 Watts
Computer= 250 Watts
Electric Range-1Burner= 1400 Watts
Electric Range Oven= 7500 Watts
TV - 13" Color= 70 Watts
TV - 32" Color= 170 Watts
VCR= 60 Watts
Stereo System= 140 Watts
Clothes Iron= 1100 Watts
Electric Clothes Dryer= 6000 Watts
Gas Clothes Dryer= 720 Watts
Washing Machine= 1000 Watts
Hair Dryer= 1600 Watts
Air Conditioning 1 Ton= 2000 Watts
Air Conditioning 2 Ton= 3000 Watts
Air Conditioning 3 Ton= 4500 Watts
Window A/C= 2000 Watts
Ceiling Fan= 100 Watts
Vacuum Cleaner= 780 Watts
Central Vacuum= 1750 Watts

Electrical Safety Precautions

Working with electricity can be dangerous unless you adhere strictly to certain rules. CAUTION: NEVER WORK ON ANY LIVE CIRCUIT, FIXTURE, RECEPTACLE OR SWITCH. Your life may depend on it. Safety rules you should follow whenever you're working with electricity include:

* Always shut off power at the main disconnect before changing a fuse.
* Always shut off power to the circuit before repairing or replacing a switch, receptacle, or fixture.
* Always tape over the main switch, empty fuse socket, or circuit breaker, empty fuse socket or circuit breaker when you're working. Leave a note there so no one will accidentally turn on the electricity. Keep any fuses you've removed in your pocket.
* Always check that the circuit is actually dead before you begin working on it. Use a circuit tested or voltammeter.
* Always unplug any appliance or lamp before repairing it.