Electrical Safety Tips and Hazards

Each year hundreds of people die and thousands more are injured in accidents involving electrical fires or shocks. Most of these incidents can be prevented by following simple electrical-safety rules.

Do not attempt to adjust, test or make a repair if you do not have the basic repair skills or if you do not fully understand the directions provided in this web site. Furthermore, if your appliance, device, project, object of repair or its components differ from those described, you should not attempt the repair based upon the provided instructions. If the manufacturer's instructions differ from ours, always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Always wear eye protection and protective clothing or gear, as directed by a service manual or an install guide.

*Electric Shock can cause Injury or DEATH:

NEVER ASSUME the electricity is off. Before servicing an electrical device, disconnect it from its electrical source either by unplugging the appliance or turning off the power at the breaker or fuse box. Mark the service panel with a note so that no one will restore power while you are working. After turning off the power to the circuit, test the circuit to be certain that there is no power. Some devices can store a hazardous electrical charge even when disconnected from an electrical source, always discharge these devices before attempting service. If you are unfamiliar with a device or its components, consult with a professional before attempting service.

When working with electrical equipment wear rubber-soled shoes, avoid damp locations and hold all tools by their insulated handles. Never touch conductive surfaces such as pipes or metal bracing. Use a non-conductive fiberglass ladder when working with electricity. Avoid shorting electrical circuits.

Fuses and Circuit Breakers

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If a fuse blows or a circuit breaker is tripped, don't just replace or reset it. Find out what caused the circuit to overload and correct the problem.
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Never replace a fuse or circuit breaker with one that exceeds the amperage rating for a given circuit.
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Avoid using several high-amperage appliances - such as irons or other heat-producing appliances - on the same circuit.
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Never replace a fuse with a penny or any other material that conducts electricity.

Electrical Outlets

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Have a professional electrician replace old or damaged outlets with modern, three-wired, polarized receptacles. Proper grounding is essential to minimize fire and shock hazards.
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Plugs should match outlets. Three-pronged plugs require three-wired receptacles or a properly grounded adapter. Polarized plugs (now standard), with one prong wider than the other, require polarized receptacles.
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Never cut off or bend the ground pin of a three-pronged plug. This ground connection protects you from severe shock caused by a faulty cord or malfunctioning appliance.
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Never alter the wide prong of a polarized plug to make it fit into an outdated outlet. Have the outlet replaced and properly grounded.
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Protect children from electrical shock by installing plastic safety inserts in unused outlets.

Appliances

* All household appliances should bear the label of an independent testing laboratory, indicating that they meet basic safety standards.
* Keep heat-producing appliances, such as electric space heaters, electric ranges, and irons at least three feet (one meter) away from furniture, curtains, bedding, or anything that will burn.
* Allow plenty of air space around televisions, computers, and stereos to prevent overheating.
* Keep electrical cords away from heat-producing appliances, such as toasters and coffee makers.
* Be sure that detachable appliance cords, such as those used with coffee makers, deep-fat fryers, and popcorn poppers are rated for the electrical-load requirements of the appliance.

Electrical Cords

* Keep electrical cords out of traffic paths and away from areas where children play.
* Maintain all electrical cords. Replace any cord that is cracked, frayed, or otherwise damaged.
* Never pinch an electrical cord against walls or furniture.
* Do not run extension cords under carpets or across doorways.

Outdoor Power

* Use only weatherproof fixtures and GFCI outlets with weatherproof covers for outdoor installations.
* Never run outdoor extension cords across lawns for seasonal lighting displays or run any extension cord across driveways or traffic areas.
* Never use electrical appliances outdoors in wet weather or when the ground or grass is wet, unless the appliance is specifically designed and labeled by an independent testing lab for such use.
* Appliances used outdoors should be plugged into receptacles protected by ground fault circuit interrupters

Lighting

* Place lamps on level, uncluttered surfaces and be sure that lampshades are secure enough to protect the bulb from breaking if the lamp is knocked over.
* Light bulbs should not exceed the wattage recommended for a lamp or fixture.

Power Lines

* Report downed power lines and mark the area to warn others.
* Never go near or touch a power line. Doing so can result in a fatal shock or severe injury.
* Keep ladders, especially metal ones, away from power lines. This includes overhead electrical service to your home.

Warning Signs

You can spot many electrical problems before they cause a fire or shock. Be alert to the following danger signs:

* Recurring problems with blowing fuses or tripping circuit breakers.
* Feeling a tingle when you touch an electrical seasonal light.
* Discoloration of wall outlets.
* A burning smell or unusual odor coming from an appliance or wiring.
* Sizzling sound at wall switches or outlets.
* Flickering lights.

If you cannot locate a problem inside your home, call your power company or an electrician immediately to inspect the electrical connection to your home at your electric meter. (Outdoor meters are extremely vulnerable to weather damage.)

When you spot a warning sign, don't wait for an accident. Take action at once. Unplug a malfunctioning appliance if you can do so safely. If necessary, cut off the power to a problem circuit by disconnecting the fuse or tripping the circuit breaker manually.

Do it yourself projects can be fun, but they can also be hazardous. When you work around electricity you must be careful, being shocked can cause injury or even death. Please read through our electrical safety tips and hazards to get a good idea of what to do or not to do. If you have an electric problem or emergency and would like to speak to a qualified electrician now, feel free to call us 24 hours a day 7 days a week - 1-800-656-3569.

Electrical and Lighting Glossary

A-Line Lamp: An incandescent lamp generally used in most indoor residential homes.
Accent Lighting: Lighting used to accent or highlight a particular object and is four or five times the level of ambient light in an area.
Alternating Current (AC) : An electric current that changes direction with regular frequency.
Alternator: An electric generator that produces alternating current.
Ambient Lighting: Light that illuminates a space.
American Wire Gauge (AWG) : A standard measure representing the size of a wire (a larger number represents a smaller wire).
Ampacity: The current a conductor can carry continuously.
Ampere: A type of electric current that is produced by one volt applied across one ohm.
Analog: A unit of measure that utilizes varying physical restrictions.
Arc Tube: A tube enclosed by a glass made of clear quartz that contains an arc stream.
Ballast: An electrical device used with fluorescent lamps to supply sufficient voltage to operate the lamp but also then limits the current during operation.
Ballast Cycling: An adverse condition where the ballast turns a lamp on and off due to overheating.
Battery: Two or more cells connected together to provide electrical current.
Blower Doors: Devices used to see how much air leaks through windows, doors, and other places in a house.
Branch Circuit: Conductors that protect circuits and outlets.
Brownout: A reduction in power when the demand for electricity exceeds its generating ability.
BTU (British Thermal Unit) : The standard unit for measuring heat quantities.
Cable Lighting System: A low voltage lighting system where electricity is conducted through cables.
Candlepower/Candela: Unit of light intensity in a specific direction, measured in "Candelas."
Capacitor: A device that stores electrical charge.
Cathode: An electrode that emits electrons.
Cell: A device that converts chemical energy into electrical current in a battery.
Circuit Breaker: A device designed to open and close a circuit without causing damage to itself.
Circuit Extensions: Items used to extend or add on to an existing circuit to provide an additional power source.
Code Corrections: Procedures used to correct wiring that does not meet proper safety conditions.
Colored Glass Filter: Glass formed with the color in the glass as opposed being coated on the surface.
Color Temperature: A measure of the color appearance of a light source often described with terms such as "warm" (orange) or "cool" (white).
Compact Fluorescent Lamp (CFL) : A family of small fluorescent lamps made with a glass tube design and high color illumination.
Constant Wattage (CW) Ballast: A HID ballast where primary and secondary coils are isolated.
Continuous Load: A load whoýs maximum current is expected to continue for 3 hours or more.
Contrast: The relationship between the illumination of an object and its background.
Controller: A device that serves to regulate the electric power delivered to a connected apparatus.
Cornice Lighting: Light sources shielded by a panel parallel to the wall and attached to the ceiling.
Cove Lighting: Light sources shielded by a recess and distribute light over the ceiling.
Current: The flow of electricity measured in amperes.
Cut-off Angle: The angle where a light fixture or other shielding device cuts off direct visibility of the lamp itself.
Daylight Compensation: An energy-saving dimming system that reduces lamp output when in the presence of natural light.
Diffuse: Dispersed light distribution that softens illumination.
Dimmer: A device used to vary the brightness of lamps.
Diode: An electronic semiconductor device that allows a current to flow in just one direction.
Direct Current (DC) : Circuit allowing electrons to flow in only one direction.
Downlight: A light fixture recessed into the ceiling and illuminates in a downward direction.
Efficacy: A measure used to compare light output to energy consumption.
Electroluminescent: A light source technology that provides long lamp life while still consuming very little energy.
Electric Resistance Heating: A type of heating system that generates heat by passing current through a conductor, often used in baseboard heating systems.
EMI: Electromagnetic Interference: High frequency interference caused by electronic components that interfere with the operation of electrical equipment.
Emergency Lighting: Lighting for when normal lighting fails.
Energy: The ability to do mechanical work; it is measured in kilowatt-hours.
Energy Efficiency Ratio (EER) : The ratio of the cooling capacity of the air conditioner to the total electrical input in watts.
Energy-saving Ballast: A magnetic ballast designed to operate more efficiently than "standard magnetic" ballasts.
Fault: A short circuit in an electrical system.
Filament: A tungsten wire that lights when electric current runs through it.
Flexible Track Lighting System: A low-voltage lighting system where the track holding the light fixture is able to bend.
Fluorescent Lamps: Devices that produce light by passing electricity through a gas.
Foot-Candle: The amount of light reaching an object.
Four-Way Switch: A wall switch allowing three switches to control one lighting system.
Frequency: The rate at which a current changes direction.
Generator: A rotating machine that converts mechanical energy into electrical energy.
Glare: A condition caused by light coming directly into the eye from a light source.
Grid: An electrical distribution network.
Ground: A connection between an electrical circuit and the earth.
Halogen Lamp: An incandescent lamp that contains halogen gases which slow the evaporation of the tungsten filament.
Hard Wired: A light fixture permanently connected to an electrical source with a cord.
Hertz (Hz) : The unit of frequency.
HID Lamp: High Intensity Discharge lamps have a longer life and tend to provide more light than most light sources.
High Bay: A type of lighting where the ceiling is 20 feet or higher.
High Output (HO) : A lamp or ballast designed to operate at higher currents in order to produce more lumens.
High-Tech Troubleshooting: A procedure used to identify any electrical problems.
Horsepower: A unit of power equal to 746 watts.
Hot Restart/Hot Restrike: The automatic restarting of a HID light source after a momentary loss in power.
Illuminance (Light Level) : The light incident on a surface.
Impulse: A currentýs surge.
Incandescent Light Bulbs: Light bulbs that produce light by passing electricity through a thin filament.
Infrared Cameras: Cameras used to see any heat leaking out of a building.
Infrared Radiation: An invisible radiation where wavelengths are longer and lower than that of visible radiation.
Instant Start: Fluorescent lamps that start instantly without pre-heating their cathodes.
Insulation: Materials that have a high resistance to electrical currents.
Inverter: A device that converts direct current into alternating current.
Ion: A positively or negatively charged atom or molecule.
Joule: A unit of energy equal to one watt for one second.
Kilovolt (kV) : A unit of electrical potential equal to 1,000 volts.
Kilowatt (kW) : Real power delivered to a load.
Kilowatt-hour: A unit of energy equal to one kilowatt for one hour; the typical unit used to measure energy and for billing customers.
Layers: Layers of light in a given space that are created by several different kinds of lighting (a combination of task, general, ambient, and accent lighting systems, etc).
LED: Light Emitting Diode: a small, energy-efficient electronic light that has a very long life.
Light Loss Factor (LLF) : Factors that allow a lighting system to operate at less than initial conditions.
Light Trespass/Spill Light: Light emitted into an unintended area.
Life Cycle Cost: Total costs associated with purchasing and operating a system over its lifetime.
Limit Switch: A switch used to alter the electric circuit.
Liquid-Filled Transformer: A transformer immersed in a liquid that acts as both a cooling and insulating method.
Live Parts: Electric components that are uninsulated or exposed and are therefore hazardous.
Load: The amount of power supplied by an electrical device.
Loadbreak: Disconnecting a load without damage.
Load Center: The source for all power to a structure.
Load Curve: A way to plot the electronic demand versus time.
Load Factor: Measures how efficiently an electrical systemýs capacity is utilized.
Load Switching: Transferring a load from one source to another.
Louver: A screen made of opaque material to minimize glare from a light source.
Low Voltage: A wiring system that provides power to an electronic device operating on a voltage level lower than the standard 110 volts.
Lumen: A unit of measure used to describe the amount of light a lamp emits.
Luminaire: A light fixture.
Mercury Vapor Lamp: A HID lamp where light is produced by radiation from mercury vapor.
Metal Enclosed/Metalclad: A device that is surrounded by a metal casing.
Metal Halide: A HID lamp where the light is produced by radiation of metal halide and mercury vapors.
Motors: Electronic device used to move, switch, or adjust one or more of the systems within a dwelling.
National Electrical Code (NEC) : A guideline used for safeguarding people/property from electrical hazards.
Neodymium: A silvery metal used to make purple glass for incandescent light bulbs, eye protection goggles, laser rods, filters, and lenses.
Occupancy Sensor: Control device that turns lights off after a space becomes unoccupied.
Ohm: The unit used for measuring resistance.
Opaque: A material that does not transmit visible light.
Optics: The components of a light fixture; the light emitting performance of a fixture.
Outlet: Where a current is taken to supply something outside the wiring system.
Overload: The excess of normal capacity that could cause damage due to overheating.
Overvoltage: A voltage that is above the normal rated voltage for a circuit.
PAR Lamp: A parabolic aluminized reflector lamp.
Pendant: Lamps equipped with shades to avoid glare that are suspended from the ceiling.
Phase: Classification of an AC circuit.
Photocell: A light-sensing device that controls light fixtures and dimmers in response to detected light levels.
Power: The rate at which energy is transferred.
Power Outage: An interruption in power.
Power Outlet: An assembly intended to distribute power to temporary equipment.
Preheat: A ballast that uses a starter to heat up a fluorescent lamp before high voltage starts it.
Puncture: A disruptive discharge that occurs in a solid dielectric.
Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) : Interference to a radio frequency band caused by other high frequency equipment in the area.
Rapid Start: A fluorescent system that does not require starters and emits light very quickly.
Rated Life: The time at which half of a certain kind of lamp will burn out.
Reactive Power: The product of voltage and current consumed by reactive loads.
Real (Active) Power: The rate at which energy is transferred, often measured in watts or kilowatts.
Receptacles: Power sources in a structure that provide electricity.
Reflector/Refractor: The device on a light fixture that shrouds the lamp and redirects the light emitted from it.
Regulation: The ballastýs ability to hold a constant output despite fluctuations in voltage.
Relay: A device that switches a load on or off due to small changes in its current.
Resistor: Anything that limits a current's flow.
Retrofit: Upgrading a preexisting fixture by installing new parts.
Sconce: A light fixture attached to a wall.
Semi-specular: Light reflection characteristics of a material.
Service: Equipment used for delivering electric energy from a utility to a wiring system.
Series Gap: Internal gap(s) where voltage is supposed to appear.
Series/Multiple: The winding of two coils that are connected for series/multiple operation.
Service Cable: Conductors transferred by cables.
Spacing Criterion: The maximum distance that interior fixtures may be spaced to ensure uniform illumination.
Specular: A mirrored or polished surface.
Starter: An electrical device used to start a fluorescent lamp.
Stroboscopic Effect: When rotating machinery appears to be standing still due to the alternating current supplied to multiple light sources.
Switchboard: A large assembly of panels mounted with protective devices.
Switches: Circuit interruption devices that control the flow of electricity in the home.
Symmetric: The normal flow of current.
Systems Capacity: A system that has met a customer's need.
Tap: A connection made from outside the wiring system.
Tandem Wiring: An option where a ballast is shared by two or more luminaries, thereby increasing efficiency.
Task Lighting: Lighting that is specifically installed to illuminate an area where tasks are performed.
Three-Way Switch: A wall switch allowing two switches to control one lighting system.
Track and Accent Lighting: A lighting system that provides variable degrees of light in multiple directions.
Transfer Switch: An electronic device that can disconnect from one power source in order to connect to another.
Transformer: A device wherein electromagnetic induction transfers electrical energy from one circuit to another.
Transient: A high amplitude, short duration pulse overlaid onto the normal voltage.
Translucent: A material through which some light is transmitted but causes some distortion.
Transparent: A material that transmits visible light with very little distortion.
Troffer: A recessed light fixture that uses fluorescent lamps and is installed flush with the ceiling.
Turn Ratio: The number of turns in a high voltage winding in relation to that of a low voltage winding.
UL: Underwriters Laboratories, Inc: a not-for-profit safety organization.
Uninterruptible Power Supply: A device that provides a constant output in spite of interruption.
Uplight: Light directed from a light fixture at or above 90 degrees.
UV Radiation: Light that is invisible to the eye.
Vandal-resistant: Fixtures with break-resistant shielding and tamper-proof screws.
Vapor-Tight Luminaire: A light fixture that doesnýt allow water vapor or gas to enter its enclosure.
VCP: Visual Comfort Probability: a rating system for evaluating direct glare.
Very High Output (VHO) : A fluorescent lamp operating at a very high current and therefore creating more light than a standard lamp.
Volt: An electrical flow that carries a current of one ampere.
Voltage Drop: The loss of voltage due to electrical resistance of a wire and its light fixture.
Wall Grazing: Dramatic light and shadow effects on a surface.
Wall Washing: A special lighting method that produces an even level of light on a wall in order to reduce the surfaceýs texture.
Watt: A unit of power equal to one ampere.
Wiring: A distribution network conducting electricity throughout a building.
Whole-House Fan: A fan used to ventilate an entire building.

Is Your Home Wasting Energy?

There are a few basics that every homeowner should pay attention to when it comes to energy conservation in the home: heating and cooling, windows, insulation, electrical systems, roofing, and doors. If you keep these systems in optimal condition, and update with newer, energy saving materials whenever possible, then you should be in good shape. If you haven't evaluated the state of these areas of your home, then you should perform an energy audit to figure out where you can improve the energy efficiency of your residence. Energy conservation is a responsibility we have to the environment, to each other, and to ourselves. That being the case, here are some of the most common solutions when it comes to energy conservation and home improvements.

Install Thermal Replacement Windows
If your old windows are drafty, installing thermal replacement windows is one of the best home improvement decisions you can make. It's an investment that will pay for itself in short order with the increased energy savings. And, not only will you be improving your home from an energy conservation standpoint, but your thermal replacement windows will look better, require less maintenance, and increase the resale value of your home as well.

Replace Incandescent Light Bulbs with Fluorescent Bulbs
While the florescent bulbs cost more up front, they last at least 10 times longer that the old bulbs and use far less energy to produce the same amount of light, drastically reducing your energy bills. Also, changing less bulbs means you don't have to keep shelling out money for replacement bulbs, either. Some used to complain about the light quality of fluorescent bulbs, but the new generation of fluorescent bulbs give off a pleasant, soft light, and special bulbs can be purchased for places where you have dimming switches installed. Taking all that into consideration, it's clear that replacing your incandescents with fluorescents is one of the easiest, and best, methods of energy conservation you can employ.

Check Home Insulation
Poor insulation, from your attic on down to your basement and crawl space, is a big source of energy loss for your home. Improving or adding insulation to any area that needs it is going to reap big benefits when it comes to reducing energy bills and upping energy savings.

Upgrade to Energy Efficient Appliances
Old appliances, from refrigerators and dishwashers, on up to furnaces and air conditioning units, use massive amounts of energy compared to newer, high tech models. You might consider a full appliance overhaul, if you've got the means, or you can just replace the old appliances with new, energy efficient models, as they wear out. Either way, these new appliances pay for themselves over time in energy savings. Look for appliances with the Energy Star label, since they are specifically manufactured with energy conservation in mind.

Consider an Energy Audit
It's one thing for you to evaluate your home yourself for ways to improve energy efficiency and another to hire a pro to come do the job for you. Investing in an energy audit is well worth the money, since the auditor will investigate your home top to bottom, then draw up a list of the most important, and effective, steps you can take towards creating a home where energy conservation is the rule, not the exception.

How To Create Your Own Electricity Source?

The entire world is affected by the energy crisis, and more and more people are searching for a way to cut their electricity bills. Many people are trying to reduce their semi-dependence on what is call non-renewable sources of energy.

Some of them are ready to take the next step to solve their problems. They are ready to live off the grid.

What is this crisis all about?

To understand what is happening right now, you need to know that there are only two sources of energy.

1. Renewable

2. Non renewable

Renewable simply means that you can use this source of energy over and over, with other millions of people. This source of energy will always be there, and it's not going to disappear.

In the renewable energy category, you have three different sources: The energy that comes from the sun (known as solar energy). You also have the energy that comes from the wind (called wind power or wind energy), and finally, you have the energy that comes from the water (hydro power).

You see, if one of these three sources disappear, humans will probably follow. So they are here to stay. And what is good for you is that they are way cheaper than the non-renewable sources of energy.

As for the non-renewable, it is the opposite. They will eventually stop.

What is the most abundant renewable source of energy?

Good question. It's the sun. It is a great source for heat and light energy. Many women turn to the solar energy to cook and save money on power bill.

Why aren't you using the sun to produce your own electricity yet?

As for hydro and wind power, they also help to reduce your power bills, and like the sun, these two sources of energy are not going to stop.

Free Power Designs and Resources - How To Build a Load Miser Switch

Introduction

A load miser switch is an automatic switching device that allows you to connect two large appliances such as a hot water tank and stove and prioritize one appliance due to an electrical panel or service entrance being underrated for a particular dwelling.

How Traditional Load Misers work

There are two types of loads in a miser switch, preferred and non preferred. When the loads reach 80 percent of the fuse rating of the device the non preferred load will shut off allowing the preferred appliance to operate. When the preferred load is below 80 percent or turned off, the load miser switch will allow power to go to the non preferred load.

Do they still exist?

Load miser switches have been fazed out over the years but there's still a demand for them. The electrical authorities don't want people to use them anymore, and this would account for their being fazed out but they're not illegal as there are many installed all over the world. Some people still manage to get their hands on them because of some available stock here and there. The lack of load miser switches has forced people to upgrade services from 60 to 100 Amps or 100 to 200 Amps and it has generated a lot of revenue for power companies. Most people who have new homes or perform major renovations have a new 200 Amp service that can handle many appliances at the same time. There are still millions of 60 and 100 Amp service entrances out there and a new service upgrade can become costly these days. Many people would like to control just two large appliances in their home or garage automatically to avoid nuisance tripping of their mains to save on a complete service upgrade.

Necessity Is The Mother Of All Inventions

Many people have an AC unit, washer and dryer, stove, and many other appliances that make a 60 and even 100 Amp service entrances mains trip when more than one appliance is running. If you're border line in amperage you just need those appliances prioritized with a miser switch. Fortunately there's a load miser switch design that's even better than the traditional load miser switching system. With some readily available parts you could build this miser switch yourself. Not only can it supply power to two loads or more and prioritize one of them, it can also be put into the main lines of a service entrance after a main disconnect and control many appliances or loads at once.

How the New Load Miser Switch works

The stove always has power as it's the main load you want running in the miser switch. When you turn your stove on; it could be one element, fan, coffee pot connected to the outlet attached to it, the current sensing relays will detect and open the power relay feeding the dryer. When this happens, the dryers power is cut off. When the stove load is reduced to just under your preset level of 1-100 Amps, it will allow the power relay to close and the dryer will work at the same time as the stove.

Some of the benefits to this load miser switch are

-You can adjust the current sensors from 1-100 Amps, even independently. Most stoves have an outlet with maybe a coffee pot connected, lights or fan. If any draw is detected above your preset level it will stop the non preferred load or loads from working. -You can install this miser switch into the main lines, after a main 60 or 100 Amp disconnect, and control many appliances through prioritization. -It can control relays or contactors up to the rating of you service entrance. You're not limited to 40 Amps and two loads like with the old miser switches. -You can run individual sensor wires from appliances to have control over your power relays with a smaller relay.

Power Electric System: Michael Thellend is an inventor, licensed electrician, certified in electronic controls and he specializes in alternative power. He offers a website with free custom ongoing resources regarding electrical, alternative, generator, vehicle and emergency power. Please visit: www.powerelectricsystem.com www.powerhow.com

How can i save money on my electric bill?...

The most electricity in your home is used by Electric Heat, Air conditioners, Electric Hot Water and your Electric Dryer. You could help by getting an automatic thermostat. Those long showers are nice but there costing you extra money. Do you really need to run that dryer that often? One other thing that could cause a problem would be a bad breaker or loose connections at the breaker.
Depending on what part of the country you live in, heating and cooling are the largest contributors to most household energy bills and are the best places you can look to save money. After making sure your home is well insulated, make sure your heating and cooling systems are running efficiently and central systems are checked annually.
To keep equipment running efficiently, keep heating and cooling air ducts clean and outdoor equipment free from dirt and other debris.
A balanced load in your electrical panel. Also the homeowners habits of electrical use. What is on? At what times? Can save money on your electric bill.

How to figure Kilowatt Hours!
Watts = Volts x Amps and the kilo in kilowatts stands for 1,000. Take the voltage, times the amperage, and divide the result by 1,000. This will give you the kilowatt usage per hour of any electric motor or other electric device.

How to read the utility electric meter!
Most electric meters are clockface, which means they use clockfaces instead of actual numbers. There are usually five clocks. Reading the clock faces from left to right, note the number the hand is pointing to. If the hand is between two numbers, note the lower number. If the number on each meter left to right was 1 2 3 4 5. Than your meter read is 12,345 KWh. And the next month it was 1 2 4 4 5, you would have used 100 KWh.

These are some approximate wattage values for appliances.
Appliance and wattage
Lighting - Emergency= 500 Watts
Lighting - Basic= 1200 Watts
Lighting - Full= 4000 Watts
Furnace - Gas= 750 Watts
Electric Heat= 5000 Watts
Heat Pump= 5000 Watts
Electric Water Heater= 5000 Watts
Security System= 20 Watts
Portable Radio= 15 Watts
Cordless Telephone= 15 Watts
Refrigrator - 20 Cu Ft= 800 Watts
Freezer - 20 Cu Ft= 550 Watts
Sump Pump= 900 Watts
Well Pump ½ HP= 1000 Watts
Well Pump 1HP= 2000 Watts
Garage Door Opener ½ HP= 400 Watts
Microwave Oven 800W= 1200 Watts
Microwave Oven 1000W= 1500 Watts
Coffee Maker= 900 Watts
Dishwasher= 1400 Watts
Toaster= 900 Watts
Computer= 250 Watts
Electric Range-1Burner= 1400 Watts
Electric Range Oven= 7500 Watts
TV - 13" Color= 70 Watts
TV - 32" Color= 170 Watts
VCR= 60 Watts
Stereo System= 140 Watts
Clothes Iron= 1100 Watts
Electric Clothes Dryer= 6000 Watts
Gas Clothes Dryer= 720 Watts
Washing Machine= 1000 Watts
Hair Dryer= 1600 Watts
Air Conditioning 1 Ton= 2000 Watts
Air Conditioning 2 Ton= 3000 Watts
Air Conditioning 3 Ton= 4500 Watts
Window A/C= 2000 Watts
Ceiling Fan= 100 Watts
Vacuum Cleaner= 780 Watts
Central Vacuum= 1750 Watts

Electrical Safety Precautions

Working with electricity can be dangerous unless you adhere strictly to certain rules. CAUTION: NEVER WORK ON ANY LIVE CIRCUIT, FIXTURE, RECEPTACLE OR SWITCH. Your life may depend on it. Safety rules you should follow whenever you're working with electricity include:

* Always shut off power at the main disconnect before changing a fuse.
* Always shut off power to the circuit before repairing or replacing a switch, receptacle, or fixture.
* Always tape over the main switch, empty fuse socket, or circuit breaker, empty fuse socket or circuit breaker when you're working. Leave a note there so no one will accidentally turn on the electricity. Keep any fuses you've removed in your pocket.
* Always check that the circuit is actually dead before you begin working on it. Use a circuit tested or voltammeter.
* Always unplug any appliance or lamp before repairing it.

Home Electrical Service

Originally, electrical power was formed by chemical reaction, and that's still the way that batteries work. This type of current, known as direct current (DC), flows from a negative pole through an electrical device (such as a light bulb) and on to the positive pole. However, direct current can't be transmitted over long distances without a debilitating drop in voltage.

Utility companies now provide households with alternating (AC) current, which actually pulses--or reverses direction--120 times, or 60 cycles, per second (called 60 hertz power). AC power moves in waves, as shown. Light bulbs actually flicker as power ebbs and flows, but the human eye can't detect it.

The utility company's electrical lines may enter a house overhead from a power pole or underground from a buried pipe called conduit. Where the power enters your house, you'll usually find an electric meter and, either there or on an inside wall, behind the meter, the main service panel.

Called "rough-in components," wires, cables, and electrical boxes are installed during construction, before the wall and ceiling finish materials are put in place.

home electrical panel service"Finish components," such as receptacles, switches, and light fixtures, are installed after the interior coverings are installed.

How to Avoid Electrical Shocks or Electrocution

Electrical current flows in a continuous closed path from the source, through a device that uses the power, and back to the source.

But electricity need not flow in wires to make the return trip to the source. It can return through any conducting body—including a person—that contacts the earth directly or touches a conductive object or material that in turn enters the earth.

If you accidentally become a link in an electrically live circuit, you’ll get a shock—or worse. The key word is “link.” To get an electrical shock, you must be touching a live wire or device at the same time you’re touching a grounded object or another live wire.

This may sound like a rather unlikely situation, but consider that whenever you’re touching any metal plumbing fixture, standing on the ground or on a damp concrete floor or patio, or partially immersed in water, you’re in contact with a grounded object. In other words, you’re satisfying one of the two requirements for getting a shock.

There may be two requirements for getting a shock, but there’s only one requirement for not getting one: Always make sure that the circuit you intend to work on is dead.

General Safety

Home improvement projects often call for risky practices and sometimes require making choices about products and materials that could prove to be dangerous to your family. When you’re working at heights, with power tools or sharp blades, with heavy, awkward, or toxic materials, or with electricity or natural gas, you are exposing yourself to a certain amount of risk.

Be realistic about your capabilities and limitations, and about the project at hand. And be aware of appropriate, safe practices. In this section of HomeTips, you will find information that will help you make smart, safe choices.

Facts about Electricity

Electricity is created when particles are charged.Some are negatively charged (electrons), some are positively charged (protons). these opposite charges attract:whereas particles with a similar charges repel each other.

The nucleus of the atom contains protons(positively charged)and usually neutrons(no charge)around which whirl electrons(negatively charged).An electron is 2000 times smaller in mass than proton but its electrical charge is equal to that of a proton.Electrons of many elements,particularly metals,are easily knocked off from there parent atoms and can wander freely in the atomic structure.If a state of unbalanced exists,these constitute a n electric current.When a battery or other source is attached to a wire,it releases electrons into the wire.They bounce against the free electrons in the wire which are repelled because they have the same electrical charge.they go on bouncing against other free electrons down the wire causing an instantaneous pressure wave. provided there is somewhere for them to go,such as a lamp or a motor,the electrons flow out to the far end.

Who discovered electricity?

(The Greeks had some idea of electricity.)

In the 18th century, Franklin and other Europeans knew a great deal about it. Early in the century Alessandro Volta inverted the the first continuous source of electrical current " the Battery",Later Hans Christian Oersted discovered that an electric current produced magnetism.But it was Micheal Faraday who described the phenomena.In his electromagnetic induction theory he stated that an electrical current flows in a conductor if that conductor is in a moving magnetic field and is part of a circuit.

What is static electricity?

Static electricity is electricity that is at rest. It is produced by friction. All matter contains positively charged particles called protons and negatively charged particles called electrons. In an uncharged atom,the protons and electrons balance each other and the atom is neutral.If this neutral atom loses an electron,because it has an excess of protons, it is said to be possibly charged. If the neutral atom gains an electron,it is said to be negatively charged.

Rubbing can tear electrons loose from certain atoms. some substance,because of the character of their atoms,tend to loose electrons and become positively charged:other substances gain electrons easily and become negatively charged.

What are the laws of electrostatics?

Unlike charges attract:like charges repel

Why do balloons that have just been rubbed with a wool cloth,move away from each other?

When a balloon is rubbed with a wool cloth,the wool looses some of its electrons. Because the wool has more protons than electrons,we say that its positively charged.The balloon gains electrons from the cloth and is said to be negatively charged. if the negatively charged balloon is brought close to a positively charged cloth, it attracts the wool. If two negatively charged balloons are brought to close together,the like charges repel the balloons away from each other.

What is current?

Current is the rate of flow of electrons flowing through a conductor. There are different sources of current electricity including the chemical reactions taking place in a battery and the application of pressure on quartz crystals. However,the most significant source is a generator. A simple magneto, or generator, produces electricity when a coil of copper turns inside a magnetic field. in a power plant, electromagnetics spinning inside a n armeture of many coils of copper wire generate vast amounts of current electricity.

What is the difference between alternating and direct current?

A battery produces direct current (DC) The electrons are set in motion by a chemical reaction in a battery and flow one way. A generator on the other end, produces alternating current (AC) because the wire coils is influenced alternately by the north and south poles of the magnets. The current is therefore constantly changing direction.

What is a conductor?

Electricity flows more easily through some materials than others. Conductors let electricity flow through them easily. Most materials are good conductors, so they are used to make wires for carrying electrical current.

What is an insulator?

Insulators such as glass, stop the flow of electricity. Most plastics are insulators. Wires carrying electricity are covered in plastic to prevent electrical shock.

What is resistance?

Resistance is the property of a substance that prevents the flow of electrons, and it is measured in units called ohms. Materials with high resistance, like Plexiglas and rubber, are called insulators since they do not easily allow electricity to pass through them. Materials with low resistance ,such as copper and aluminum are called conductors because they let electricity flow through them easily. Electricity passing through a material will heat the material relative to the resistance of that material.

What is a magnetic field?

When an electrical current passes through a wire, it produces a magnetic field around the wire. The greater the current, the stronger the magnetic field. by coiling up the wire many times the magnetic field produced can be made even stronger. The earth is like a gigantic magnet with lines of magnetic force running from the north pole to the south pole. A compass needle line up with the earth's magnetic field, pointing towards magnetic north. Like the earth,all magnets have a north and south pole and are surrounded by invisible "lines of magnetic force".

What is electromagnetism?

Michael Faraday discovered that a magnetic fields can generate a n electric current. This principle of induction can be effectively demonstrated by moving a magnetic bar in and out of a coil of copper wire attached to a meter, or by using a magneto. A magneto is an assembly of magnets enclosing a copper coil. When the copper coil is turned in the magnetic fields of the magnets, electricity is produced.

How are magnetism and electricity conducted?

In a generator or magneto, magnetism can induce electricity, in an electromagnet electricity induces magnetism. Combining electricity with rotating magnets makes an electrical motor.

What is an electrical circuit?

A circuit connects electrical components in a closed path or loop. it includes a source of power , one or more on and off switches, interconnect wires and an electrical appliance such as a bell or a light bulb.

How does a fuse work?

A fuse is connected directly to an electrical circuit. If the electrical current surges to a dangerous level, the material in the fuse melts and the circuit is broken, preventing over heated wires in a house from starting a fire. Never substitute a fuse of greater capacity then that specified for a particular circuit. If the fuse has the ability to carry more current than originally designed, the wires heat up before the fuse melts, and this could start a fire.

Why does your hair stand on end at the Van de Graff generator in a museum?

The museum's Van de graff generator removes from the large globe,giving it a high positive charge. If you stand on an insulated plate and touch this globe, all parts of your body become positively charged, including your hair. Since like charges repel, every hair on your head is now trying to get away from every other hair. The best way is to stand straight up. Result- Flyaway hairdo.

Basic Home Wiring System

The electric system of your home is integral to its overall ability to function properly. Your home wiring system needs it to be in top-notch condition so that all the appliances and light fixtures in your home are supplied with adequate amounts of power without compromising on safety.

In most homes the electrical service is divided into branch circuits - each branch circuit supplies power to a certain section of the house. Good home wiring ensures that each branch circuit carries a manageable load, otherwise you'll be spending all your time resetting breakers and replacing fuses to deal with many an overload.

Some appliances, in fact, take up so much power that they require their own circuits. For instance, an electric stove or dryer needs its own 240-volt circuit, while other appliances that are used regularly may require 120-volt circuits. In normal circumstances, one circuit provides electricity to more than one outlet, each using a varying amount of power.

A typical home circuit plan, if well planned, makes use of branch circuits that provide power to areas that serve a specific purpose. The danger is when a home, usually overhauled by inexperienced do-it-yourselfers, has circuits strewn all over the house in an unorganized manner. Again, a good electric system provides sufficient power to such appliances as a microwave oven, dishwasher, garbage disposal, and of course, an electric oven. The rest of the circuits should be organized by room and level of demand.

If you do experience problems with overloading circuits and want to check how much a particular circuit can take, look at the breaker or fuse to discover how many amps the circuit can deliver. The calculation is pretty simple: if the appliances hooked up to the same circuit exceed the amperage that circuit can supply, you'll have to move some equipment away. Another solution is to add another circuit to your electrical system.

Wiring your home can be an involved process, especially if you have no prior electrical experience. But it can also be dangerous for an amateur to attempt on a grand scale, so if you have been thinking about renovating your home without any professional help, it may be prudent to consider hiring an electrician to handle the electric system.

Is it Time for Electrical Repair?

Anyone who has spent considerable time in the same home knows that the laws of entropy inevitably find their way into those walls. From flickering lights through the very real danger of fire, signs of electrical decay should be heeded as quickly as possible. Perhaps this is why so many people now turn to the Web in search of responsible electric contractors they can hire in a pinch.

Of course, electric contractors can do far more than repair frayed wires and otherwise shore up your existing system. The best of these can also help you plan, design and execute ambitious home projects that may include everything from dazzling entertainment systems to the vanguard in home security. Depending on the scope of your imagination and how much money you have to offer, talented professionals may improve your life immeasurably.

Probably the best way to set a timetable for electric repairs of this sort is by looking online for what fellow homeowners have done. Very basic projects such as adding outlets or retrofitting fuses can usually be done in an afternoon, but more involved schemes can easily stretch into days or even weeks. Top electric contractors will usually have no problem being instrumental as you design a schedule for maximum convenience.

Electric contractors come in many forms nowadays, from truly independent outfits through more established businesses. It may surprise you to learn that sometimes the guys who go independent have the most skill in this area, coupling considerable experience with a well-deserved independent spirit. Get on board with one of these electric contractors and you may find yourself saving time, money and anxiety throughout the process.

Electric repairs shouldn't have to take over your life, and today more people than ever are availing themselves of experienced, effective care. Whether you're concerned about the safety of your home or simply want to add some coveted modern features, the best electric contractors portals should be able to point you toward better health. Choose well and you could find yourself enjoying a brighter, safer future sooner than you think.

How to Choose an Electrical Contractor

Choosing an electrical contractor requires that you know something about the work you want on your home. It simply isn't enough to go into the process with an open-ended charter and a vague idea that you want the lights stay on. Managing, planning and executing electrical projects involves understanding all aspects of the project, how much it will cost, and how the work will be completed.

Many of the best electric contractors can help with issues such as these, making sense out of a confusing process and offering substantive guidance throughout. From the basics of transformers and wiring through major issues such as environmentally friendly planning, the right professional should be able to walk you through the endeavor from start to finish. Find a handy professional and you may even save thousands of dollars along the way.

Probably the best way to choose an electric contractor is to go through avenues you already know. Friends, family and neighbors may have strong recommendations, and today some of the Web's best resources offer even more detail. What you want first and foremost is an experienced professional who protects your home's beauty and security throughout the process.

Too many homeowners hire electric contractors without nailing down a firm estimate first, an oversight that can lead to considerable expense down the line. One of the quickest ways to send your budget spiraling out of control is with unneeded repairs and exorbitant parts that will scarcely see the light of day. Take a hard line with inventory items such as this and you should rightly expect that job to be done promptly and affordably.

Electric contractors that earn better reputations tend to do so through hard work, good communication and integrity. If you want to ally yourself with some of the best in the business, simply look around the Web for resources that point you toward responsible and expert pros in your area. With a few phone calls, you should be able to have the process up and running in a matter of days.

Day-to-Day Safety

Follow these electrical safety tips to protect your home, family and business:

* Wiring, fuses and breakers
* Electrical cords
* Electricity and water
* Appliance safety
* Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs)


Wiring, fuses and breakers

* If your electrical panel uses fuses, always replace a fuse with the right amperage fuse. Never substitute a higher amp fuse where a smaller one is called for, since this poses a fire hazard
* Never change fuses in the dark or while standing on a wet floor
* If you blow a fuse or throw a breaker by overloading a circuit, make sure that any appliances on that circuit are turned off or unplugged before you replace the fuse or reset the breaker
* When your home or cottage was built, the electrical installation was inspected to ensure that it met the Electrical Safety Code at the time. Keep your wiring safe. If you add to it, be sure to have an electrical inspection
* Check for rust on your fuse box caused by moisture. It can corrode connections, which can lead to overheating and fire
* Never replace a burnt out fuse with a coin, even as a temporary measure. Doing so could start a fire
* Use 'P' fuses for general lighting circuits and circuits to appliances like water heaters, baseboard or portable heaters and stoves
* 'D' fuses have a built-in delay feature to handle power surges, which occur when heavy appliances are turned on. They should be used for freezers, air conditioners, clothes dryers and electric furnaces

Electrical cords

* It's important to use cords properly and keep them well maintained. Electrical cords are insulated to protect you from the electricity running through the wires inside. When an appliance or tool is on, these wires are "live" and could cause shock upon contact
* Never use a tool or appliance with a frayed cord or where the insulation is nicked and wires are exposed
* Keep cords clean to prevent insulation from deteriorating
* Don't wind cords tightly around an object; the stress could cause the small wires inside to snap or break
* Never run cords under rugs. It conceals damage and can cause the cord to overheat and become a fire hazard
* Never break off the third prong of a plug. The third prong (the round one) is a grounding wire put there for your protection; it provides a ground path that helps prevent or minimize shocks. Rather than breaking it off to fit an older outlet, replace a two-prong outlet with a three-prong one and make sure the third prong is properly grounded
* Never nail cords to walls or floors. It punctures the insulation and can short out the wires
* Don't run cords behind radiators. Heat damage to the insulation can increase the risk of shock
* Avoid "octopus outlets"! Clusters of wires and plugs may mean your electrical system can't cope with your energy needs. It may be time to rewire and add circuits

Electricity and water don't mix!

* Be careful in the bathroom and near sinks; radios, hairdryers and other electrical appliances are hazardous if you use them near water. If your hands are wet or if you're standing on a damp floor, you could get a serious electrical shock
* Any plugs that are near sources of water should be GFCIs (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters)

Work safely with your electrical appliances

* Not all appliances on the market are safe. Electrical equipment that is poorly designed or manufactured can pose a serious shock or fire hazard. Look for a label such as Canadian Standards Association (CSA) or Underwriters Laboratories of Canada (ULC). They indicate that the product has been tested and meets the requirements of the Ontario Electrical Safety Code
* Keep appliances in good working order. Check cords for damage, fraying or nicks. Never use a tool or appliance with a frayed cord or where the insulation is nicked and wires are exposed
* Never handle electrical appliances or equipment with wet hands or while standing on wet ground or in water
* Check plugs for bent or damaged prongs. Don't break off the grounding prong on a 3-prong plug
* Watch out for sparks — they're a signal of potential danger. If you see any sparks, turn off and unplug your appliance immediately
* Keep appliances clean. Clean the removable lint filter on your clothes dryer after each load. Dirt, dust or lint can make appliances unsafe to use; lint and dust are flammable
* Always disconnect an appliance before cleaning it
* If you bring used or second-hand appliances to your cottage, make sure they are still electrically safe

Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs)

Potentially fatal shocks can be caused by a ground fault in your electrical appliances and tools. A GFCI provides split-second electrical protection for you and your family – that’s why they are required by law in certain parts of your home.

All outdoor and bathroom electrical outlets in new and renovated homes must be supplied from circuits equipped with GFCIs. This included circuits serving swimming pools and hot tubs. They should also be considered for damp locations such as laundry rooms, basements and kitchens. Specially designed portable GFCIs can be taken from place to place to protect you anywhere.

Electrical Inspections

For your safety, insist on an electrical inspection

Electrical inspections are designed to help protect the people in your home or building from electrical hazards.

Today, inspections are handled by the Electrical Safety Authority (ESA). An Inspector from the ESA will check any electrical work to make sure it meets the requirements defined in the Ontario Electrical Safety Code, which sets provincial standards for safe electrical installations and electrical products.

Electrical inspections are the law

Electrical inspections are required in order to comply with requirements of the Electricity Act 1998 and the Ontario Electrical Safety Code (Ontario Regulation 10/02). It's the law. All electrical installations, renovations and alterations are required to have an electrical inspection. This includes:

1. Installation of outlets, switches, lighting fixtures, baseboard heaters, smoke detectors (excluding battery operated types), exhaust fans, etc.
2. Installation of new equipment such as heat pumps, water heaters, air conditioning, swimming pools, whirlpools, saunas, etc.
3. Electrical service upgrades or changes
4. New homes, additions or renovations

Whether you hire an electrical contractor or do the work yourself, all electrical installations or changes must be inspected to ensure they comply with the Ontario Electrical Safety Code. This applies to private homes, offices, industrial buildings and income properties.

To contact an Electrical Safety Authority representative for information, or to apply for an inspection, call 1-877-ESA-SAFE.

Power Cut

The first thing you should do in the event of a power cut is check your trip switch, wiring and appliances. If it seems that there is no fault here then you should call your suppliers emergency number.

Before you call, check whether your neighbours or the rest of the street has lost power also as your supplier will usually ask this. Your supplier will take some standard name and address details from you, ask what time your electricity went off and may ask you to check your trip switch and your meter.

If the supplier is aware of the loss of power in the area and are dealing with it, then you may receive a recorded message when calling, giving you the relevant information. If you have any particular information about why the loss of power occurred you should let them know so the supply can be restored as soon as possible.

If there is a planned interruption to your electricity supply you should have been previously informed by your supplier. Planned supply interruptions may rarely occur and your electrity company and National Grid have certain agreements in place as to informing you with enough notice and restoring supply as soon as possible. If these promises are not kept to, you may be entitled to compensation.
What to do during a Power Cut

* Always have candles or a torch in the house to use as emergency lighting, ensure candles are lit safely and never left unattended.
* Try and stay in one room and wrap up warm.
* Leave a light switch turned on so you know when the power has been restored.
* Unplug electrical appliances and keep use of fridges and freezers to a minimum. Check that food has not thawed when power is restored.

Troubleshooting

Switch ON
If a switch is on, then turn it off and back on - the mechanism can trip inside the box but not move the actual switch. If this does not restore the supply then push the 'push to test' button. If the switch now trips it means you have a problem with your wiring or perhaps a faulty appliance as the this button can only trip the switch if you have a good electricity supply. The switch will now be in the off position. This is a problem within your home, so do not call your supplier. You will need to call a qualified electrician to come out and fix the problem.

If the switch is on and the 'push to test' button doesn't trip the switch, this means that there is no incoming electricity supply so you will need to call your suppliers emergency line.

Switch OFF

If when you go to the box, a trip switch is off, then you should flick it back on. If it stays on but you still have no electricity, then make sure you have not switched off the main fuse box switch. If the switch trips straight away then it means you have a problem with your wiring - you should call out a qualified electrician to look into this.

If the fuse box and trip switch are separate then turn off the fuse box and turn the trip switch back on - it should stay on. If it flicks to off again then there is a fault with the fuse box or trip switch itself.

Checking your Trip Switch

Modern electric circuits are fitted with a circuit breaker fuse system. If a fault develops, a switch is tripped. If you have a trip switch, it will be on or near your fusebox, your fusebox will always be near to your electricity meter. You should always locate your trip switch and fuse box when you first move into a property - before an emergency occurs. Your trip switch should have a 'push to test' or a 'reset' button.

Switches can trip for a number of reasons:

* An over loaded circuit - too many electrical appliances used at once
* A faulty appliance
* Over filled kettle
* Faulty connections on appliance leads.
* Faulty emersion heater

If a switch has tripped because of one of these reasons, you should flick it back on and then re plug items one by one. If the switch trips again, you will know that that particular item is faulty.

Electric Shock

Most of us take electricity for granted as an easy way to power our homes but we should also be aware of the dangers. Electric shocks can cause anything from a slight discomfort, to severe burns to heart failure and our safety section explains how they can be best avoided.

Electric shock can be caused by any of the following:

* Faulty appliances
* Damaged cords or extension leads
* An electrical appliance coming in contact with water
* Faulty household wiring

If someone has been shocked:

* They may be unconscious, have a weak pulse, have difficulty in breathing or not breathing at all and may have signs of burns.
* The human body conducts electricity so the electric current may still be running through them so do not touch them as you are likely to be shocked too.
* Turn off the main power to the house to prevent any further damage.
* Call the emergency services and notify them that is an electrical accident.
* When the person is no longer in contact with the electricity source and there is no danger of the current being transmitted then breathing and pulse can be checked and emergency first aid can be administered. Start resuscitating the victim if necessary. If you are unsure of the procedure, the ambulance caller can take you through this over the phone - resuscitation as soon as possible with increase the victim's survival chances.
* If the patient is breathing, then talk reassuringly to then until the ambulance arrives. Try not to move them and attend the any other injuries if possible.
* Cover any burns and blisters with dressings that won't stick but never use any ointments or oils onto burns.

Electricity saving tips in the kitchen

Economical Washing and Drying
Drop the water temperature of your wash

Your washing machine and tumble dryer are two of the appliances in your home that use the most energy. You may not be able to cut down how often you use them, but you can make some small changes to how you use them that will help you save energy and money.

When using the washing machine, between 85-90% of energy is used just to heat up the water. Therefore, dropping the water temperature of your wash could significantly decrease your energy consumption. Over a year, by using a warm wash rather than a hot wash, you could cut consumption nearly in half.

Other tips for conserving energy when washing are: Only use the machine when you have a full load, and if you have to do a smaller wash, use the half load function. The spin on the machine may mean that more energy is used but by spinning your clothes you are removing more excess water, therefore reducing your drying time in a tumble dryer.

Fix a Dripping Tap

A dripping tap can be not only annoying but if it is a hot tap it can cost you in both water costs and water heating costs.

If left to drip, over time a hot tap can waste enough water to fill half a bath. So don't pour water and your heating costs down the drain, make sure you fix it.

Efficient Cooking

Always use the correct size pan

There are a few easy ways to save energy when cooking which can also speed up the amount of time you spend over a hot stove. Always use the correct size pan, and when heating water only use the amount you need so the electricity is not burning unnecessarily to heat the excess.

If only using a small pan, then use a smaller burner. Boiling water in the kettle first will save the time the burner needs to heat the water, and putting a lid on will help it come to a boil quicker.

When making a cup of tea, only boil the amount of water that you need. Boiling a full kettle unnecessarily is a waste of electricity.

Fridge and Freezer
Make sure your fridge is our of direct sunlight

The location of your fridge can make a difference in how energy efficient it is. Make sure it is out of direct sunlight and not close to the oven. It is best to keep it against an outside wall so that the heat it generates can escape easily, and always make sure that there is a few inches space all around the fridge so that air can circulate.

Make sure you defrost your fridge and freezer on a regular basis or whenever necessary. An iced up freezer will make the freezer work harder, therefore wasting more energy than needed. Only set your fridge to as cold as you need it and avoid keeping the door open for long periods of time as the more cold air that escapes, the harder the fridge has to work. You should check the seal regularly as well, as if it is damaged then cold air will be escaping also.
Never put warm or hot food in the fridge

You should never put warm or hot food into the fridge as this will make the fridge work extra hard to try and keep it cold; always allow food to cool down first.

Another good tip is to defrost frozen food in the fridge as this helps to keep it cool as it thaws.

Electricity saving tips in the home

Don't Leave Electrical Appliances on Standby
Switching the TV from the main power button or socket

Many of us with use the remote to switch off the TV or stereo, leaving the appliance running on standby.

This actually means the appliance is still using up electricity and wastes a considerable amount of energy. By switching off at the main power button, or even the socket, you could be saving both energy and money.

Items left on standby use up to 85% of the energy they would use if fully switched on. An extra million tonnes of carbon will be released into the atmosphere through this power wastage.

Tumble Dryer

Electric tumble dryers are commonly the second biggest energy user in the home, after the fridge. They are obviously used a lot less, but still use a huge amount of electricity when switched on.

You can avoid using the dryer so often by line drying clothes whenever possible or using an indoor clothes dryer when the weather is bad.

If you do need to use the dryer, then ensure the clothes are as dry as possible after washing, eg, they have gone through a fast spin so that there is minimum excess water. This will reduce drying time considerably.

Lighting

In most homes, about 10-15% of the electricity bill is for lighting so energy saving light bulbs can cut your costs considerably. Traditional bulbs waste a lot of energy by turning it into heat but energy saving bulbs work in the same way as fluorescent lights, the tubes coating glows brightly as an electric current passed through gas in the tube.

They may be more expensive to buy than traditional bulbs, but they are worth the investment as last over 10 times longer and use up to 4 times less energy. Where you would use a 100w ordinary bulb, you would only need a 20-25w energy saving bulb. With savings like this, changing bulbs throughout your house could really cut your electricity costs.

No matter what type of lighting you are using, always turn the lights off when you leave a room.

Solar Garden Lights

There are a number of different solar powered lights available at the moment for use in the garden. These lights are highly energy efficient and convenient as do not require external extension leads or special electric fittings. These lights contain solar cells which convert the suns energy into electricity. They charge up during the daylight and light up as it gets dark. They are not usually hugely bright but are less intrusive than electric lights and look nice in the flowerbeds.

Electrical Safety Tips

* Don't remove a plug from a power point by pulling on the cord; pull the plug instead.
* Use socket covers on sockets accessible to young children.
* Never plug adaptors into adaptors and avoid using adaptors filled with plugs where possible.
* Switch off electrical items that are not in regular use at the plug and ensure that when we are away from the house for any length of time that you unplug and switch off electrical items as items left plugged in can be a fire risk and waste energy if left on standby.
* Do not use any electrical items in the bathroom unless specifically designed for use there, eg. Shavers and electric toothbrushes. Even with these items however, take care not to get wet and avoid plugging and unplugging with wet hands.
* Do not use items with damaged cords so that the wires are exposed. Either repair or replace. Check items regularly.
* Do not use damaged sockets, replace with care when necessary.
* Always turn the electrics off at the mains if carrying out any electrical repairs and only attempt repairs if you know what you are doing.
* Ensure any electrical items are approved standard when purchasing and keep them correctly maintained where necessary. Look for the BEAB seal of approval.
* Do not use electrical equipment outside if it's raining.
* Use the correct wattage light bulb for all light fittings.
* Circuit breakers and fuses should be the correct size current rating for their circuit.

Coping With a Power Outage

What do you do when all the power in the house goes off? Usually this is due to a general power outage in an entire neighborhood or district, but sometimes the problem lies in an individual residential wiring system.

The first step is to see whether the outage is a general power outage or restricted to your home. If it's nighttime, look around the neighborhood to see if everyone else's lights are off. During the day, call a neighbor to see if others are affected. Or, if you have a circuit breaker main disconnect, check to see whether it has tripped to the OFF position. If the main entrance is wired with fuses, pull the fuse block out and slip the fuses free. Check them with a continuity tester to see if they are still good. With a probe lead touched to each end of the fuse, the tester light will come on if the fuse is good.

If the trouble is a general power outage, all you can do is call the power company. If your main breaker is still in the ON position or both main fuses are good but your neighbors have power and you don't, the fault lies between your main entrance panel and the power transmission lines. The reason could be a downed service drop, a faulty or overloaded pole transformer, or some similar problem. Call the power company; this part of your system is their responsibility. If you find a tripped main breaker or blown main fuses in your main entrance panel, the problem lies within the house and may be serious. Do not attempt to reset the breaker or replace the fuses. The difficulty may be a system overload, using more total current than the main breaker can pass. Or there may be a dead short somewhere in the house.

The first step is to go back through the house and turn off everything you can. Then, if you have a circuit breaker panel, flip all the breakers to the OFF position. Once the breakers are off, reset the main breaker to the ON position. One by one, trip the branch circuit breakers back on. If one of them fails to reset, or if the main breaker trips off again as you trip the branch breaker on, the source of the trouble lies in that circuit. The circuit will have to be cleared of the fault.

If all the breakers go back on and the main breaker stays on, you're faced with two possibilities. One is that something you disconnected earlier is faulty. Go back along the line, inspect each item for possible fault, and plug each one back in. Sooner or later you'll discover which one is causing the problem, either visually or by noticing that a breaker trips off when you reconnect it. The other possibility is systemwide overloading.

This is characterized by recurrent tripping out of the main breaker when practically everything in the house is running but there are no electrical faults to be found. To solve this problem, you can either lessen the total electrical load or install a new larger main entrance panel with new branch circuits to serve areas of heavy electrical usage and help share the total load. This job requires a licensed electrician.
The troubleshooting approach is similar if the main panel has fuses, except you'll need a supply of fuses on hand. First, pull all the cartridge fuses and unscrew all the plug fuses in the panel. Replace the main fuses, and put the fuse block back into place. Then, one by one, replace each fuse or set of fuses until the one that's causing the outage blows out again. This is the circuit that must be cleared. General overloading, however, will cause the main fuses to go out again. If this happens, call in an electrician, who can test for overloading and suggest remedies.

How to Restore a Circuit and Cope With a Power Outage

The fuses or circuit breakers in your home electrical system are there for a purpose: to blow or trip if the circuit is overloaded. When that happens, as it does from time to time in almost every home, what do you do?

The first step should be taken even before a circuit trips. If you haven't already done so, make a list of all the branch circuits in your home by number and by what area each one controls. Then you can figure out which receptacles and fixtures are on each branch circuit. If you aren't sure the list is accurate and complete, you can verify it with a very simple procedure. Remove a fuse or trip a circuit breaker to its OFF position, then check to see what equipment or devices are deenergized. Of course, it's easy to see when a ceiling light goes out, but you can check a receptacle just as easily by plugging in a lamp. A small night-light is an ideal indicator. Once you know exactly which receptacles, fixtures, and appliances are connected to each branch circuit, write all the information on a card, and attach the card inside the door of the main entrance panel.

When a circuit goes off, there may be some visual or audible indication of the trouble spot, such as a bright flare from a lamp or a sputtering, sparking sound from an appliance, that will immediately lead you to the source of the trouble. If so, disconnect the faulty equipment. Take a flashlight, and go to the main entrance panel. Check to see which fuse is blown or which breaker has tripped, and determine from your information card which receptacles, appliances, and lighting fixtures are on the circuit. Then disconnect everything on that circuit you can, and inspect those fixtures you can't easily disconnect for signs (or smells) of malfunction.

Replace the fuse, or reset the breaker. If the circuit holds, it's possible something you disconnected is faulty. Check for short circuits or other problems. If there's no evidence of electrical fault in the fixtures, the problem may be too much current draw for the circuit to handle. In this case, remove some of the load from the circuit.

If the new fuse blows or the circuit breaker refuses to reset, the problem lies in either the equipment that's still connected or in the circuit cable itself. Check the still-connected items, examining each for faults until you find the offending equipment. If the circuit still goes out when there are no loads connected to it, the wiring is faulty, probably due to a short in a junction or receptacle box or in the cable itself. If you suspect faulty electrical wiring, call an electrician.

A circuit breaker is a remarkably trouble-free device, but once in a while a breaker does fail. The result is the circuit will not energize, even when it's fault-free. When a circuit goes out, if the circuit breaker itself has a distinctive burnt plastic smell, if the trip handle is loose and wobbly, or if the breaker rattles when you move it, the breaker has probably failed. Turn off the circuit, check the breaker with a continuity tester, and replace it as needed.

Electrical Safety Tips

Some home electrical repairs require a licensed electrician, but the repair or replacement of many electrical components can be done by a do-it-yourselfer. Make safety your first priority, and you'll be amazed at what you can do to maintain and upgrade the electrical devices in your home.

All electrical devices and electrical wires are designed to provide the greatest measure of electrical safety, but you can defeat any built-in safeguards with carelessness and ignorance. To work safely with electricity, be aware of the following hazards and precautions:

* Never do anything that would break the conductor's insulation. Do not, for example, staple an extension cord to a baseboard or wall. The staple can cut through the insulation and create a short circuit, which, in turn, can start a fire. Moreover, you should examine all wiring regularly and discard any cord with brittle insulation. Replace the old cord with a new one that has good insulation.

* Turn the power off before replacing a receptacle or a switch or doing any other work on a circuit. If your system operates with fuses, remove the fuse for the circuit you're working on and slip it into your pocket or toolbox. If you leave it nearby, someone might put the fuse back in while you're working on the circuit. If your home's electrical system uses circuit breakers, trip the appropriate circuit breaker to its OFF position. Then, to make sure no one accidentally flips the circuit breaker back on while you're working, put a piece of tape and a sign over the circuit breaker's handle telling people what you're doing.

* When you work on an electrical circuit, make all wire joints and connections inside an approved electrical box. There are several ways to join wires, but the best way is to use solderless connectors of either the crimp-on or screw-on wirenut kind. Never connect wires together in a behind-the-wall or in-the-ceiling location that is not accessible by simply opening an electrical box. In addition, when joining insulated wires to one another or when fastening them under terminal screws, make sure no uninsulated or bare wire extends beyond the connection. The insulation should go right up to the solderless connector or terminal screw.

* Everyone in the family should know where and how to throw the master switch that cuts off all electrical current.

* If there's a chance of contact between water and electricity, do not wade in water until the master switch has been shut off.

* Always assume an electrical receptacle or apparatus is energized until you prove otherwise with a circuit tester or by pulling a fuse or tripping the disconnect plug.

* Use only insulated pliers when working with electricity.

* Stand on a dry board or wooden platform when working with a fuse box or circuit breaker box. Also, use a wooden rather than an aluminum stepladder to minimize the risk of shock when working with electrical wiring.

* You can save time by determining which electrical circuits activate which receptacles in your home and then diagramming or printing the information inside the circuit breaker or fuse box.

Safety Tips For Kids

Teach your children about personal safety at a young age so they can better protect themselves.

* Map out a route to and from school and walk it with your children. Make sure they follow this same route every day unless they have your permission to go another way.
* Find out if your school has an attendance call-back program to let you know if your child does not arrive at school.
* Your child should carry some form of identification, for example, a laminated ID card with his or her name, complete address, telephone number and an emergency contact person and their phone number.
* Click here for more information on Ameritech's Kid Safe & Sound program, a child identification program which may be available in your community.
* Keep up to date records on your child, including a recent photo, a lock of hair wrapped in plastic, age, blood type, height and weight, date and location of last dental x-rays, distinguishing marks, eye color and any other identifying characteristics.

Electrical Safety Precautions

Working with electricity can be dangerous unless you adhere strictly to certain rules. CAUTION: NEVER WORK ON ANY LIVE CIRCUIT, FIXTURE, RECEPTACLE OR SWITCH. Your life may depend on it. Safety rules you should follow whenever you're working with electricity include:

* Always shut off power at the main disconnect before changing a fuse.
* Always shut off power to the circuit before repairing or replacing a switch, receptacle, or fixture.
* Always tape over the main switch, empty fuse socket, or circuit breaker, empty fuse socket or circuit breaker when you're working. Leave a note there so no one will accidentally turn on the electricity. Keep any fuses you've removed in your pocket.
* Always check that the circuit is actually dead before you begin working on it. Use a circuit tested or voltammeter.
* Always unplug any appliance or lamp before repairing it.

Wall Switches

Types of switches

Single-pole switches control a light or receptacle from one location only and have two screws of the same color.
Three-way switches operate in pairs to control a light or receptacle from two locations. They have two screws of the same color, either brass or silver, and one (called the common terminal screw) of another color, either copper or black.
Dimmer switches are wired like single-pole switches and have either terminal screws or lead wires.
General Tips for Replacing Switches

* Read all the information stamped on the back of the new switch. The new one should have the same amp and voltage ratings as the old.
* If your home's wiring is aluminum, use only replacement switches marked CO/ALR. Replace unmarked switches and switches marked CU/AL with switches marked CO/ALR. Don't backwire switches to aluminum wiring, attach aluminum wires to terminal screws only.
CAUTION: Always shut off the power to the circuit before you begin work. Use a circuit tester to make sure the circuit you're working on is dead before you touch any wires.

Replacing a Single-Pole Switch

* Turn off the power to the circuit and remove the cover plate.
* Unscrew the switch and pull it out carefully.
* Unfasten the wires.
* To attach the new switch, loop the stripped wired ends clockwise around the terminal screws on the switch.
* Tighten the terminal screws with a screwdriver.
* Push the switch carefully into the switch box to avoid crimping the wires.
* Screw the switch to the box and reattach the cover plate.

Replacing a Backwired Single-Pole Switch

* Shut off the power and unscrew the cover plate.
* Unscrew and remove the switch from the box.
* Push a small-bladed screwdriver into the backwire release slots on the back of the switch next to each wire and pull the wire out.
* Push stripped wire ends (measure using the wire-stripping gauge) into the terminal on the new switch.
* Attach the switch to the box and replace the cover plate.

Replacing a Three-Way Switch

* Shut off the power and remove the cover plate.
* Unscrew and pull out the switch.
* Label the wire to the common terminal screw with tape.
* Install the new switch, attaching the labeled wire to the common terminal screw (black or copper.)
* Connect each remaining wire to either of the remaining screws.
* Insert in the box and fasten.

Installing Dimmer Switch with Terminal Screws

* Shut off the power and remove the old switch.
* Loop the circuit wires clockwise around the terminal screws on the dimmer.
* Insert in the box.

Installing Dimmer Switch with Lead Wires

* Shut off the power and remove the old switch.
* Connect the circuit wires to the dimmer's lead wires, twisting them together.
* Screw on wire nuts and insert the dimmer in the box.

Professional Hint for Electrical Repairs: How to Strip Wire

* Use a utility knife or penknife to strip insulation off the ends of the wire.
* Use the knife blade to cut through the insulation all the way around, then pull the insulation off the wire.
* Be careful not to nick the wire when you cut, a nicked wire breaks more easily, especially if the nick is where you bend the wire to form a loop for a connection to a terminal screw.
* If you do nick the wire, it's best to cut the wire back to the nick and start stripping again.
* For the best results, purchase a wire stripper at your local hardware store.

Fuses

What are Fuses?

Fuses have a thick metal strip through which current passes into a circuit. If too much current starts to flow, the metal melts and cuts off the current. Fuses may be one of several types:

* Plug and Type S fuses have a metal strip (visible through a window) that melts when there's an overload.
* Time-delay fuses have a spring-loaded strip that allows temporary overloads.
* Cartridge fuses show no sign of overload. They must be tested to reveal whether they've blown.

Fuse Safety Tips

* When a fuse blows, always replace it with one of the same type and amperage rating. Never replace it with one rated higher.
* When you need to change a blown fuse, shut off all power before touching the fuse and be sure you're standing on dry ground.

Diagnosing Electrical Problems

Typically, you discover you have an electrical problem when you turn on a lamp or appliance and it won't work. When that happens, the source of the problem may be the device itself, faulty wiring connections, an overloaded or a short circuit.

Overloaded circuit
A circuit becomes overloaded when there are more lamps and appliances on it than it can safely handle. When all the lamps and appliances are turned on, the wiring overheats and the fuse blows or the circuit breaker trips.

Short circuit
A short circuit occurs when a bare hot wire touches a bare neutral wire or a bare grounded wire (or some other ground). The flow of extra current blows a fuse or trips a circuit breaker.

Helpful Diagnostic Hint
Plug fuses provide a clue to what made them blow
An overload melts the bridge.
A short circuit blackens the glass.
Light Fixture Won't Work

Check for:

* Burnt out bulb or fluorescent tube
* Defective fluorescent starter
* Faulty switch
* Loose wiring
* Faulty socket

Remedies:

* Replace bulb or tube
* Replace fluorescent starter
* Replace switch
* Tighten connections at switch or fixture
* WHAT ABOUT SOCKET?

Appliance Won't Work

Check for:

* Overloaded circuit
* Damaged plug
* Damaged cord
* Loose wiring
* Defect in appliance or lamp

Remedies:

* Test for overload -- shift appliance or lamp to another circuit
* Replace plug
* Replace cord
* Tighten connections at switch or receptacle
* Test in another circuit -- repair if faulty

Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in One Circuit -- Works in Others

Check for:

* Overloaded circuit
* Loose connection at receptacle
* Short circuit

Remedies

* Test for overload; shift appliance or lamp to another circuit
* Tighten connections at receptacle
* Test for short circuit; make necessary repair

Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in One Receptacle of Circuit

Check for:

* Loose wiring
* Faulty receptacle
* Short circuit

Remedies:

* Tighten connections at receptacle
* Replace receptacle
* Test for short circuit; make necessary repair

Appliance or Lamp Won't Work in Switch-Controlled Receptacle

Check for:

* Loose wiring
* Faulty switch
* Faulty receptacle

Remedies:

* Tighten connections at switch or receptacle
* Replace switch
* Replace receptacle

Some Lights on Circuit Won't Work

Check for:

* Loose wiring
* Faulty switch

Remedies:

* Tighten connections at switch or fixture
* Replace switch

No Lights on Circuit Work

Check for:

* Overloaded circuit
* Short circuit
* Loose wiring
* Faulty switch

Remedies:

* Test for overload; make necessary adjustment
* Test for short circuit; make necessary repair
* Tighten connections at switch
* Replace switch

Tracing a Short Circuit or Overload

A blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker is a signal that you may have either a short circuit or an overload in the electrical system.

* Look for black smudge marks on switch or receptacle cover plates, or for frayed or damaged cords or damaged plugs on lamps and appliances connected to the dead circuit.
* Replace a damaged cord or plug.
* Then replace the fuse or reset the breaker.
* If the circuit goes dead after an appliance has been in use for a short time, you probably have an overloaded circuit.
* Move some of the lamps and appliances to another circuit and replace the fuse or reset the circuit breaker for the first circuit.

Don't find any of the above signs of trouble? Trace your way through the circuit using the steps below.

* Turn off all wall switches and unplug every lamp and appliance on the dead circuit.
* Install a new fuse or reset the tripped breaker.
* If the fuse blows or the breaker trips right away, the problem may be a short circuit in a switch or receptacle.
* With the circuit dead, remove each cover plate and inspect the device and its wiring.
* Look for charred wire insulation, wire shorted against the metal box or a device that's defective.
* Replace a defective device.
* Call in an electrician to replace faulty wiring.
* If the new fuse doesn't blow or the breaker doesn't trip right away, turn on each wall switch, one by one, checking each time to see if the fuse has blown or the circuit breaker has tripped.
* If turning on a wall switch causes a fuse to blow or the breaker to trip, there's a short circuit in a light fixture or receptacle, controlled by that switch, or there's a short circuit in the switch wiring.
* With the circuit dead, inspect the fixture, receptacle, and switch for charred wire insulation or faulty connections.
* Replace a faulty switch or fixture.
* Call in an electrician to replace wiring.

Problem still not solved? You probably have faulty wiring. Call an electrician to correct the problem.

If turning on a wall switch doesn't blow a fuse or trip the breaker, the trouble is in the lamps or appliances.

* Test them by plugging them in one by one.
* If the circuit doesn't go dead, the circuit was overloaded.
* Move some of the lamps or appliances to another circuit.
* If the circuit does go dead just after you've plugged in a lamp or appliance, then you've found the offender.
* If the circuit goes dead as soon as you plug in a lamp or appliance, the plug or cord is probably at fault and should be replaced.
* If the circuit goes dead when you turn on the lamp or appliance, the appliance or lamp or its switch is probably defective and should be replaced or repaired.

Receptacles

How Receptacles are Wired

Most receptacles have two outlets (duplex receptacles) and are rated at 15 or 20 amps, 120 volts. One or both outlets may be electrically live at all times, or one or both may be controlled by a wall switch. The receptacle may be installed in the middle or at the end of a circuit. The wiring arrangement is different in each case.

Receptacles have three different-colored terminal screws:

* Brass screws are hot.
* White or silver screws are neutral.
* Green screws are for grounding.

Receptacles may be grounding or non-grounding types. Always replace a receptacle with a grounding type unless there's no grounding wire in the box or the box isn't grounded, then you can use a non-grounding receptacle. To install a grounding receptacle to an undgrounded box, you must ground the receptacle independently. For help, consult a professional.

Because receptacles are rated for a specific amperage and voltage, be sure to replace an old one with an exact duplicate. If your wiring is aluminum, your receptacle must be designed to be used with aluminum wire (look for the letters CO/ALR.) use the terminal screws only, backwiring is not suitable for aluminum wires.
Replacing Appliance Receptacles

Appliance receptacles, rated from 15 to 50 amps, 240 volts and from 20 to 50 amps, 120/240 bolts, each require a special plug that will fit only that receptacle. Take care when replacing appliance receptacles because they have two hot wires, usually red and black, going to them. They may or may not have a separate grounding wire.

CAUTION: before beginning any work, turn off the power to the circuit. For a 240-volt circuit, you may have to remove two fuses or trip a two-handed circuit breaker.
Replacing a Grounded Receptacle

* Shut off power to the circuit, unscrew the cover plate and remove.
* Unscrew the receptacle from its box and carefully pull it out.
* Note which wire is connected to which terminal screw.
* Disconnect the wires from the screws.
* To install the new receptacle, wrap the wires clockwise around the screws (use old receptacle as a guide.)
* Screw the receptacle to the box and replace the cover plate.

Replacing a Backwired Receptacle

* Shut off the power.
* Push a small-bladed screwdriver into the slots next to the wires.
* Pull them out.
* To install the new receptacle push the end of the stripped black wire into the hole by the brass screws, white wire by the silver ones.

Replacing a 120/240-volt Receptacle

* Shut off the power and remove the receptacle from its box.
* Label the wires and screws.
* Detach the wires.
* Reconnect the wires to their proper screws on the new receptacle.
* Reattach the receptacle to the box and replace the cover plate.

Professional Hint: Using Wire Nuts

For most simple repairs, you won't need to splice wires. But you may have to splice two or more copper wires to replace a damaged wall or ceiling light fixture or to make a connection in a receptacle, switch or junction box. To splice wires:

* Strip 1 inch of insulation off the wires together clockwise.
* Snip off 1/2 to 3/4 inch of the ends.
* Cap the twisted wires with a wire nut, turning it clockwise to secure the connection.
* Make sure the wire nut is the proper size for the wires.
* CAUTION: Don't use any wire nuts to splice together a damaged extension cord. For safety, building codes allow you to splice house wires only within junction, receptacle, fixture or switch boxes. Also, be sure to turn off the power to the circuit before you make any splice.